金門探險記- 那些在挖掘風獅爺的日子(Kinmen Adventure: The Days finding those “Wind Lion God”)-Mandarin & English(180825)

此為紀錄為期三週在 金門-北山古洋樓-背包客棧青年旅館 打工換宿日誌,以一個旅人的眼帶大家看金門,以及因擔任客棧小幫手結緣的北山古洋樓。

It is a journal to record my 3 weeks work exchange life in Beishan Back Packer Inn, Kinmen. I will share my adventure and daily life in Kinmen and helper experience in Beishan.

Every location I mentioned will have google map link(If no,you can find by yourself haha).


「為什麼來到金門?」(Why Kinmen?)

這是每一個遇到我、知道我要來金門都會問的問題。金門是一個很特別的地方,由於經歷過戰爭最前線的經驗,加上本身豐富的文化,讓我特別有興趣,尤其是很多適合探險跟訪尋秘境的機會,加上因為一首MV(【Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover),被其中種種金門的故事吸引,二話不說聯絡北山古洋樓的蔡大哥,定下了為期3週的小幫手換宿。

This is the question asked by people when they know I will go to Kinmen. Kinmen is a special place due to the warfront experience and vivid culture, especially many opportunities for adventure. Moreover, I was obsessed by an MV(【Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover) and the Kinmen stories mentioned in the MV. Thus, I called Beishan Inn’s owner Mr, Tsai and checked the plan as a helper in Beishan for 3 weeks.

Why come to Kinmen?

此篇日誌會分為七個部分(This Journal will be divided into 7 parts) :

ㄧ、北山古洋樓與它的小幫手(Beishan and Beishans)

二、戰爭的痕跡(Trace of war)

三、金門秘境探險(Adventure in Secret Area of Kinmen)

四、尋找風獅爺(Search for Wind Lion God)

五、夜遊後浦-七月流火(Houpu in the night-Ghost month)

六、尾聲(Last but not Least)

七、參考網站與資料(Reference)


ㄧ、北山古洋樓與它的小幫手(Beishan and Beishans)

旅程的一開始,用三個字描述北山古洋樓:古蹟、戰爭、溫馨。

At the beginning of the journey, we can use three words to describe Beishan: Historic site, war, warmth.

北山古洋樓外觀一景Beishan backpacker Inn

「北洋樓是一棟戰爭洗禮過的古蹟,有故事的房子。」(Beishan is a historic site experienced war.)

北山古洋樓的路標 Beishan Inn mark

沒錯,經營背包客棧的建築本身就是古蹟,在一棟古蹟住宿和當小幫手絕對是我人生中很特別的體驗,尤其北山還是當地人口中的「鬼屋」。

北山古洋樓曾遭到戰爭的洗禮。民國38年的古寧頭戰役期間,這棟中西合璧的洋樓因位於路口交通樞紐,曾為共軍的指揮所,因此國軍與共軍在此展開你來我往的火拼大戰,洋樓上斑斑彈孔與傷痕累累的斷臂牆垣見證了這一段怵目驚心的戰爭歷史。民國75年,趙萬富將軍接任金門防衛司令官,他將北山古厝群的殘樓整建,保存了戰火下的名勝古蹟,並樹立「北山村巷戰紀念誌」碑記述這段戰役歷史,供後人憑弔。(資料來源:Click)

當然關於這棟房子當初的建造,怎麼從本來是北山最豪華的建築,成為戰爭的犧牲品,進而一度荒廢,是眾說紛紜的,甚至傳說,當初從屋內清出的共軍屍體,將近有兩層樓多那麼高,可見當時的慘狀。由於戰死的英魂不散,北山也似乎不怎麼平靜,最可惜的是因房屋權狀的問題,導致那麼美麗又殘酷的所在,無法進行整修。

到了現任客棧老闆蔡大哥標到十年都不成標的案子,北山古洋樓才成為現在的模樣,慢慢開始有人氣,戰爭過後,回到的一般老百姓的日常。

Yes. Beishan is a historic site as well as a backpacker inn . It is definitely a special experience as a helper living in historic site while Beishan was called “ghost house” by the locals.

In 1949, Beishan was destroyed during Guningtou Battle(Wiki) because of its key strategic location and used to be Communist army command base. Thus, Beishan’s walls have several bullet holes during the war. In 1986, a general rebuilt Beishan and reserve the war history by setting a monument.

Back to the origin of Beishan, from using to be a luxuries architecture in Kinmen to the victim of war and

Of course, there are a lot of different opinions that the origin of this house comes from the most luxurious building in Beishan, which became a victim of war. It was once abandoned afterward. Even the legend says the corpse of the Communist army soldiers that were removed from the house had nearly two floors and some ghost stories came out at that time. The most unfortunate thing is that because of the housing rights issue which makes Beishan building cannot be refurbished.

Nowadays, the Beishan Inn keeper Mr.Tsai was marked the Beishan case that was not marked for ten years and Beishan began to be popular by operating as an inn. After the war, Beishan returned to the peaceful daily life.

「北山是一個很溫馨的大家庭,每個人可以用自己舒服的生活方式,在這裡生活。」(Beishan is a warm family, everyone can live in your way here.)

在北山古洋樓當小幫手有幾個方式:房務換宿、專業換宿或是提案換宿。因為本身有在做影片記錄生活的習慣,所以選擇做影片的方式專業換宿。

背包客棧經營者蔡大哥很善心的收容很多小幫手,每一次都超收,同期最高在我待在客棧期間高達14個小幫手!每一次我們都笑說小幫手比客人還多。我覺得北山古洋樓背包客棧給我的感覺是「包容」,儘管才剛剛來,這裡的小幫手跟人很大方的分享經驗,才來的第一天,就被拉去冒險挖掘廢棄的基地,爬上去看著飛機降落與起飛,周邊的人還認識不到24小時,但是我們已經經歷了一場冒險。

到了背包客棧,本來擔心不會廚藝的我,要怎麼解決人生大事,但其他的小幫手已經聯合煮飯,拿著碗筷,吃著來金門的第一餐,滿滿的熟悉感,我開始可以理解為什麼我可以這麼快跟其他小幫手一樣,稱北山為「家」。

在這裡的生活,是每天下午就騎車出去跟其他人去冒險、去體會金門的文化與一山一草。在短短幾天,從一開始陌生有點害怕,到可以一個晚上騎車20到30分鐘回北山也覺得自然,從一開始對於金門本來沒有什麼特別期待,到期待每一次的秘境與廢墟冒險。

我現在很感謝一時衝動而申請北山打工換宿的我,因為沒有這一次經驗,我不會知道金門多美好。

There are three ways to be a helper in the Beishan: room service, professional accommodation or proposal accommodation. Because I have the habit of making a video to record my life, I chose to do the professional filming.

The Beishan Inn keeper Mr.Tsai is very kind to accommodate many helpers, in the same period I stayed in the inn has up to 14 helpers! Every time we joked that helpers are always more than guests. In short, Beishan gives me the feeling of “tolerance”. Although it was my first time here, other Beishan helpers shared their experiences with me, and they took me to explore the excavation of abandoned bases. On my first day, we climbed up and watched the plane landed and took off. The people around me and I still didn’t meet each other over 24 hours, but we have already experienced an adventure.

When I arrived at the backpacker’s inn, I was worried that my dinner while I can’t cook. However, other helpers have already cooked, I hold the dishes and ate the first meal in Kinmen with full of familiarity. At the moment, I can understand why I accept and call Beishan “home” so quickly like other helpers.

The daily life here is going out to explore Kinmen every afternoon with others and experience the culture and nature of Kinmen. In just a few days, I was afraid of everything and now I can ride my scooter back to Beishan alone for 20 to 30 minutes at night. Also, I didn’t have any special expectations for Kinmen but I turned to look forward to taking every adventure and exploring ruins.

I am very grateful for applying the work exchange in Beishan because of my impulsiveness. Without this experience, I will not know how beautiful Kinmen is.

與小幫手早上六點去建功嶼之後,一起在榕樹下吃建麗小籠包 :)(After going to Jiangongyu island from 6 a.m., Baishan helpers and I ate xiaolongbao in the park hehe)

二、戰爭的痕跡(Trace of war)

眾所皆知,金門是曾經八二三戰爭的前線,承受很多的砲彈攻擊,因此民國50年左右,設施紛紛地下化,例如民國52年國軍開始挖鑿小艇坑道(翟山、九坑)以利運補、民國51年挖鑿擎天廳、民國67年挖鑿花崗石醫院及迎賓館(坑道旅館)。因此可見的是,金門特別多廢棄或是觀光的軍事基地與砲台,也有很多的戰爭相關博物館,更多的是刺激的地下坑道或是不知名的軍事建築物可以去探險。

當然,由於只有待三個禮拜,不能一一每一個景點都分享,只能就我去過的地點分享。

As everyone knows, Kinmen is the front line of the August 23rd Artillery Battle. It has been subjected to many shell attacks. Therefore, facilities have been underground in 1960s. For example, National Army began to dig a small boat tunnel(Zhaishan,Jiugong) in 1963, Qingtianting Hall in 1962, and the granite hospital and the guesthouse (the tunnel hotel) were excavated in 1978. Therefore, there are a lots of abandoned or sightseeing military bases and forts, war-related museums, and exciting underground tunnels or unknown military buildings can be explored.
Of course, since staying for three weeks, I only share the places I have been to.

八二三戰史館的戰車(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum’s tank)

(一) 八二三戰史館(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum) & 俞大維紀念館(Mr.Yu Da-wei Memorial Hall)

八二三戰史館、俞大維紀念館與榕園就在同一區,因此來可以一次去三個景點,我主要去的是前兩者,會特別著重八二三戰史館。
August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum, Mr.Yu Da-wei Memorial Hall, and Banyan Park are in the same district, so you can go to these three spots at a time. I mainly go to the first two, and I will especially focus on the August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum.

  1. 八二三戰史館(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum)
(左Left)八二三戰史館門口(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum);(其他)August 23rd Artillery Battle history and introduction

裡面主要在描述當年金門八二三砲戰時候的歷史,同時展出砲彈的規模跟金門當時如何運送物資與進行軍事行動。金門當時為兩軍的兵家必爭之地,在八二三砲戰時期,連當時的國防部長俞大維也常常來到金門坐鎮,金門也因此一躍到國際歷史的舞台。金門離中國廈門非常近,幾乎是一望就可以望到對岸,因此打仗的情勢在當時是非常緊張的。

在參觀中,我覺得最特別的是提到很多如何運補物資的描述,因為運補議題是砲戰勝負的關鍵,另外有趣的是政治廣告,也是運用從空中投放的方式,把各種傳單發送到對方的領地上。

It is mainly about the history of August 23rd Artillery Battle of the year. At the same time, it exhibited the scale of the artillery shells and how Kinmen transported materials and did military operations. At that time, Kinmen was a battleground for the military of two armies. During August 23rd Artillery Battle, even the Minister of Defense Mr.Yu Da-wei often came to Kinmen, and Kinmen jumped to the stage of history. Kinmen is very close to Xiamen, China, and you can almost see the other side, so the situation was very tense at the time.
In the museum, the most special part is to mention a lot of descriptions of how to transfer the materials, because the replacement issue is the key to the outcome of the war. Another interesting thing is the political advertisement, which was also used to send various flyers to the other party’s territory.

當時砲彈很多,金門人拿來做菜刀,變成金門特產之一(The other party shot a lot of shells and the locals made kitchen knife by shells which turn to souvenir afterward.)
拍攝戰史館裡面的特調海報(special beverage post)

另外,很有趣的是這邊小賣部有賣蔣介石特調跟毛澤東奶茶,在德月樓也有賣,這是後來比較新興的飲料,並不是傳統飲品。蔣介石特調是特調奶茶加上金門海石花,毛澤東奶茶則是特調奶茶加上58度高粱酒,都是很特別的體驗,可以嘗試看看。

In addition, it is very interesting that the museum sells “Chiang Kai-shek special” and “Mao Zedong milk tea”, which is also sold in De Yue Building. This is a relatively new beverage, not a traditional drink in Kinmen. “Chiang Kai-shek special” is a special tea with Kinmen coral and “Mao Zedong milk tea” is a special milk tea plus 58-degree sorghum liquor.

2. 俞大維紀念館(Mr.Yu Da-wei Memorial Hall)

俞大維前面提過是當時戰爭的國防部部長,此紀念館為紀念這個人的生平和價值觀,唯一比較記憶深刻的是他獲頒的其中一個匾額「不忮不求」,也就是「不嫉妒、不貪得」,不嫉妒他人,不貪求非分名利,後多用來形容淡泊名利,不做非分事情的處世態度。我期許自己可以成為更有自信的人,不因自卑而對自己失望,不因追求不到而否定自己,成為心裏更成熟與強大的人。

Mr.Yu Da-wei, the Minister of Defense of the August 23rd Artillery Battle at that time. This memorial is to commemorate the life and values of this person. The only thing that is memorable is that he was awarded one of the plaques, “Be neither jealous nor greedy.” I also hope that I can become a more confident person, neither be disappointed with myself because of inferiority nor deny myself because of the pursuit and become a mature and powerful person.

不忮不求匾額(Plaques,“Be neither jealous nor greedy.” )

(二)建功嶼(Jiangongyu Island)

建功嶼要等退潮,才有圖片中的石頭路到達對面的島嶼(If you want to arrive Jiangongyu, you should wait for the ebb)

建功嶼可以說是金門版本的摩西分紅海,因為要到達建功嶼需要等退潮,中間的道路浮現之後,才能通行,因此我們一早六點半就出門騎車到這裏。到達建功嶼,裡面有觀光的軍事基地,旁邊有身長幾尺的延平郡王鄭成功石像,眺望對岸的中國,似乎望著回不去的祖國。

Jiangongyu can be said that the Kinmen version of Moses and the Red Sea. It is necessary to wait for the ebb, the road will emerge and people can walk. Therefore, we go out and ride there at 6:30 in the morning. Arriving at Jiangongyu, there is a military base for sightseeing as well as a statue of Koxinga, which is a few feet long. The statue faces China and seems to look at the motherland that cannot go back.

(左Left)延平郡王石像(Statue) ; (右Right)基地門口(the military base)
活化石鱟,約莫銅幣大小(living fossils, about a coin size)

另外,因為位在潮汐帶,生態非常豐富,石頭路旁邊很多鑽來鑽去的寄居蟹。我們一起在旁邊的泥巴裡面找活化石鱟,運氣不錯,找到一兩隻小鱟,約莫5、6歲,非常可愛。

Besides, Jiangongyu is located in the tidal zone, and the ecology is very rich, There were many hermit crabs drilling by the stone road. Other Inn helpers and I found the living fossils in the mud next to the road. Luckily, I found a few small living fossils, about 5 or 6 years old.

(三) 陽翟老街(Yangzhai Old Street) & 金東電影院(Jindong Cinema)

陽翟一帶的繁華從金東電影院開始,1950年台北市議會議長張祥傳先生,為了慰勞金門前線軍官的辛勞,捐款興建了今日的金東戲院,當年電影院場場座無虛席的盛況,讓一旁的陽翟街區順勢發展成繁榮的商店街,但隨軍人減少而沒落。(資料來源:金門觀光網站)

The bustling area of Yangzhai began in Jindong Cinema. In 1950, Mr. Zhang Xiangchuan, the president of Taipei City Council, donated money to build the Jindong Cinema today which was popular at that time and made Yangzhai develop into a prosperous shopping street. However, it fell with the decline of military personnel. (Source: Kinmen Tourism Website)

金東電影院,聽說可以爬旁邊的牆進去,但是功力還不夠哈哈哈(Jindong Cinema)

如果喜歡復古風格的人,絕對會深深愛上這裏,尤其都還有保留當時的各項設施加上每一戶都有一片大國旗展現愛國氛圍,這邊有浴室、眼鏡行、照相館、理髮廳、電影院、冰店、茶室等等,都是為了因應軍隊的日常需求。

If you like the old style, you will definitely fall in love with it. In particular, here retain the facilities at that time. Each house has a large national flag to show patriotic atmosphere. There are bathrooms, eyeglasses store, photo studios, Barbershops, cinemas, ice shops, tea rooms, etc. All are designed to meet the daily needs of the military.

陽翟老街一景,非常復古風(Yangzhai old street)

這邊保留最完整而且可以進去觀光的是一間小茶室,因為大部分要不是被鎖起來,就是已經是廢墟狀態。這邊可以看到很完整當時的使用情況,包含還有櫃檯登記簿跟宣導性病防治,往裡面有還有當時的房間。有一部電影「軍中樂園」就是以茶室跟軍人為主角,在戰爭之時的故事,拍攝地點就在陽翟。

The one that remains the most complete and can be visited is a small tea room because most of the building is locked or in ruins. Here you can see the complete use of evidence, including the counter for registration, the promotion of sexually transmitted diseases, and rooms at the time. There is a Taiwanese movie “Paradise in Service”(Click: Trailer) which is talked about the story of the tea room and the military and they cast in Yangzhai.

特約茶室一景(Tea room)

(四) 特約茶室展示館(Military Brothel Exhibition Hall)

同前面提到的特約茶室,其實就是提供軍人性事處理的地方,寫實地描述如何購買票卷跟對應物價,以及金門每一個茶室分佈與經營狀況,最後是進行服務的小房間。

Military Brothel Exhibition Hall mentioned above is actually a place for military dealt with sex desire(also called “tea room”), to describe how to purchase the ticket and the corresponding price at that time, as well as the distribution and operation of each tea room in Kinmen, and finally the small room for service.

特約茶室展示館(Military Brothel Exhibition Hall)

看完所有茶室相關建築與展覽,很少提到的是這些女人的故事,戰爭中最受害的往往是婦女與孩子,尤其是日本統治的時候,有所謂的強制性奴隸(慰安婦)。看到很多提到為了國家之類的話,但是我想說的是,如果可以選擇,沒有人想成為茶室的小姐,我認為是不存在心甘情願的。

戰爭不是只有男人的悲哀,女人同是。

After visiting all the tea room related buildings and exhibitions, it is rare to mention the stories of these women. The most victims of the war are usually women and children. Especially during Japan ruled, there were so-called mandatory slaves (comfort women). The record said these women were for the country, but I think if you can choose, no one wants to be a “tea room lady” with no willingness.
War is not only about the sorrow of men, as well as women.

(五)北山播音牆(Beishan Broadcasting Wall)

北山播音牆(Beishan Broadcasting Wall)

當你來到一片草原,看到矗立在海提邊的巨大長方體建築物,上面一個個類似音響的洞,這裏是北山播音牆,用來向當時的對岸作為心理戰廣播的用途,可以最長傳播25公里,由48組揚聲器組成的方陣。

「親愛的大陸同胞你們好,我是鄧麗君……」每天鄧麗君清脆的嗓音從巨大的播音器裡傳出,紀錄戰爭時期,用國語、閩南語廣播新聞、宣傳、批判、招降等訊息的過程。

When you come to a grassland, you will see a huge rectangular building standing on the edge of the sea. There is a sound-like hole above it. It is Beishan broadcasting wall, which was used for the psychological warfare broadcasting to the Communist and pass to 25 kilometers away with square array of 48 sets of speakers.
“Dear mainland compatriots, I am Teresa Teng…” Every day, Terasa Teng‘s(Taiwanese famous singer) crisp voice come from a huge radio, recording the process of broadcasting of news, propaganda, criticism, and surrender in Mandarin and Taiwanese.

在北山播音牆裡面一景(Inside Beishan Broadcasting Wall)

播音牆的內部平常都是不外開放,當天剛好有活動才有開放,控制台同圖片所展現,沒有太過複雜的操控平台,可以連結任何我們想要播放的音樂或聲音。播音牆的對面就可以看到廈門,所以可以想像當時的戰爭,如何運用廣播作為心理戰。

The interior of the broadcasting wall is usually closed. The console is displayed with the picture I post. There is no too complicated control platform to link any music or sound we want to play. You can see Xiamen on the opposite side of the broadcasting wall, so you can imagine how to use broadcasting as a psychological warfare at the time.

(六)獅山砲陣地(Shishan(Mt.Lion)Howitzer Front)

獅山砲陣地(Shishan(Mt.Lion)Howitzer Front)

獅山砲陣地位於金門的東北角,鄰近山后民俗文化村,是台灣唯一坑道式的榴砲陣地,又名震東坑道,取「威震金東」的意思。來到這裡,有坑道可以進去參觀各種砲彈、戰車跟紀錄片。

Shishan Howitzer Front is located in the northeast corner of Kinmen, adjacent to the Shanhou Folk Culture Village. It is the only tunnel-style cannon base in Taiwan. It is also known as the Zhendong Tunnel which means “ Inspire Zhendong”. Come here, there are tunnels to go in and visit various shells, chariots, and documentaries.

震東坑道(inside the tunnel)

另外,大家來到這裡還有是想要觀賞砲彈演練(砲操),可以看到以前射擊的過程、阿兵哥演練跟裝填彈藥。

In addition, everyone came here to see the cannonball drill , you can see the process of the shooting, military practice and loading ammunition.

砲操過程(cannonball drill)

(七) 太武山(Taiwu Mountain)

(From left to right)太武山風景區(Taiwu Mountain)、玉章路登山步道(通往毋忘在莒石1.6km)(Yuzhang Road Hiking Trail which leads to Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock)、上山沿路景色(scene during hiking)

太武山在金門本島的東部,高262公尺,是金門的最高峰,也是小百岳之一。1950年代後,整個太武山區多被劃為軍事禁區,山上除構築防禦工事,也有四通八達的坑道。

Taiwu Mountain is 262 meters high in the eastern part of Kinmen . It is the highest peak of Kinmen and one of Xiaobaiyue. After the 1950s, the entire Taiwu Mountain area was classified as a military restricted area. In addition to constructing fortifications, the mountain also has tunnels extending in all directions.

毋忘在莒一石(Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock)

另還有被視為金門地標的「毋忘在莒」刻石,隨著解嚴開放,這些都成為遊客去金門必遊覽的地方。毋忘在莒的典故為戰國時齊國被燕國連攻七十二城,僅剩即墨、莒二城為最後固守的城池。 齊國以莒城為反攻基地,在五年的艱苦歲月後逆襲成功,收復了失地。 見史記卷八十二田單傳。 後以毋忘在莒比喻收復國土。(資料來源:維基百科)

Now, Taiwu mountain has been open to visitors and Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock also the hot spot to take the picture. Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju in Chinese means to recover the “homeland”.

(八)翟山坑道(Zhaishan Tunnel)

翟山坑道內部(Internal of Zhaishan Tunnel)

第一眼看到翟山坑道,便被眼前的壯麗坑洞所震撼,加上旁邊的燈光與水交映,這裏是大金門最具代表性的坑道,又被譽為「地下金門」傑作之一。

位於金門西南方,為一A字型戰備水道,總長約357公尺,民國五十二年為因應戰爭所需而開挖,耗時三年才完成,戰時供登陸小艇搶灘運補用,坑內並有停靠碼頭。在金門國家公園管理處重新整建、清理後,翟山坑道於八十七年正式開放,是不可錯過的觀光景點。

另外,每年秋季會在翟山坑道裡面辦音樂會,由於自然地形行成天然的回音,使得整個表演更令人震撼,大家有空可以不妨來翟山。

When I first saw the Zhaishan Tunnel, I was shocked by the magnificent scene in front of me with the lights and water shining. It is the most representative tunnel of Kinmen. It is also known as the masterpiece of the “underground Kinmen”.
Located in the southwest of Kinmen, it is an A-shaped war prepared waterway with a total length of about 357 meters. It was excavated in 1963 in response to the war. It took three years to complete, and it was used for landing in the war. After the renovation and clean-up by Kinmen National Park Management Office, the Zhaishan Tunnel was officially opened in 1998 and is a must-see attraction.
In addition, in every autumn, concert will be held in Zhaishan Tunnel. Because the terrain is a natural echo, the whole performance is even more shocking. You can come to Zhaishan and listen to the music.

(九)得月樓(Deyue Tower) & 僑鄉文化展示館(Overseas Chinese Culture Exhibition Hall) & 金水國小(Jinshui Elementary School)

得月樓是一個防禦性的建築,主人去南洋打拼之後光宗耀祖所建造,所以這棟建築很多巧思,推薦這邊的導覽,非常的詳盡。

最顯著的是一開始看到的三層樓高的塔(得月樓),此為窺探敵人跟射擊之處,地下還有一層是地道,可以直達主人家 。有趣的是,塔旁邊的建築為「假建築」,所以會發現空間特別窄小,為迷惑敵人。

Deyue Tower is a defensive building which the owner went to Nanyang to develop business and this building has a lot of ingenuity. I recommend you can listen to the guide in Deyue Tower which is very detailed.
The most notable is the three-story tower (Deyue Tower) that was first seen. This is the place to spy on the enemy and the shooting. The ground floor is also a tunnel that can go directly to the host. Interestingly, the building next to the tower is a “fake building”(no one live in here), so you will find that space is particularly narrow, to confuse the enemy.

得月樓外觀(Deyue Tower)

旁邊主人住的地方為「黃輝煌洋樓」,洋樓大都是出去打拼的金門人衣錦還鄉後所建造,這邊可以看到以前建築的特色。例如閣樓的設計作為充分利用空間,或是窺探樓下敵人的時候,可以把樓上的地板掀起窺探跟逃生。

The place next to Deyue Tower is “Huanghuangyang Western Style House”. Most of the buildings were built after the Kinmen people who went out to develop business. You can see the characteristics of the previous buildings. For example, when the loft is designed to make full use of space, or to spy on the enemy downstairs, you can pry the floor up and escape.

黃輝煌洋樓(Huanghuangyang Western Style House)

旁邊就是僑鄉文化展示館跟金水國小,金水國小以前是學校,後來因為學生減少,變成博物館,同僑鄉文化展示館,都是在訴說下南洋的人的故事與生活。

Next to it is the Overseas Chinese Culture Exhibition Hall and Jinshui Elementary School. Jinshui Elementary School used to be a school. Later, because the students were reduced, they became museums. Same as Overseas Chinese Culture Exhibition Hall, Jinshui Elementary School is telling the story and life of people in Nanyang.

金水國小展覽洋客生活(Jinshui Elementary School)

(十) 莒光樓(Juguang Tower)

我第一次來到莒光樓的時候,好似看到古代的城池。

裡面展演除了金門的特色與文俗活動,還有紀錄當時古寧頭與八二三砲彈戰爭,與對面的「毋忘在莒」一石遙遙相望,如果對於想一次了解金門當地文化跟戰爭紀錄的人,可以來這裡作為起始點。

When I first came to the Shuguang Building, it was like seeing the ancient city.
In addition to the characteristics and cultural activities of the Kinmen, there are also records of the Guningtou Battle andAugust 23rd Artillery Battle at the time, and the opposite side of the “Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock” . If you want to learn about the local culture and war record of Kinmen. People can come here as a starting point to know Kinmen.

莒光樓一景(Juguang Tower)
莒光樓內部(Juguang Tower)

(十一) 古寧頭戰史館(Guningtou Battle Museum)

古寧頭戰史館除了主要用畫作介紹當時戰爭的慘烈,也有劇情加上紀錄片去描述當初的古寧頭戰役,是很好的銜接國軍退台後,固守金門的關鍵戰役,有句話說:「金門在,台灣在; 金門失守,中華民國難存。」

In addition to the paintings used to introduce the tragic wars at the time, the Guningtou Battle Museum also included a plot and a documentary to describe the Guningtou Battle. It was a key battle for the national army and the Kinmen. Some words said, “Kinmen is in, Taiwan is in; Kinmen is falling, and the Republic of China is hard to survive.”

古寧頭戰史館(Guningtou Battle Museum)

另外,比較特別的是,有保存當時的坑道,可以走進去體驗,可以直接通到外面的營區,裡面都有一些當時作戰的紀錄。

It is more special to save the tunnel at that time, and you can walk into the tunnel and directly go to the outside base. There are some records of the battle at that time.

坑道內的景色(Scene inside the tunnel)

(十二)湖井頭戰史館(Hujingtou Battle Museum)

此戰史館在小金門(烈嶼),此博物館最特別的在於可以從這裏的望遠鏡看向對岸的廈門非、常、清、處,幾乎可以看到對面廈門的車子行駛,但我去的時候,霧有點大,所以看不到全部。

Hujingtou Battle Museum is located in Xiao Kinmen (Lieyu Township). The most special part about this museum is that it can be seen from the telescope here to the opposite side of the city very clear. You can almost see the car on the opposite side of Xiamen, but I can’t see it all due to the thick frog.

從瞭望台看出去的景色,當天有點霧霧的(scene from the telescope with thick frog)

這裡還紀錄了當時打電報的聲音記錄,有一排的電話亭,只要你拿起話筒,自然有說話的聲音傳來,近距離的體驗當時的氛圍。不過聽著不知道為什麼忽然有點想念我爸,可能是因為語氣都是如同當時的士兵一樣,仔細交代在異地的家人好好照顧自己。

It also recorded the sound record of the telegraph at that time. There was a row of telephone booths in museum. As long as you picked up the microphone, there was a voice coming from the phone, and you can experience the atmosphere at that time. But I don’t know why I suddenly missed my dad. It may be because the tone is like the soldiers at that time, carefully had their family take care of themselves.

湖井頭戰史館(Hujingtou Battle Museum)

(十三) 紅土溝(L36 Fortress)

我們爬上去拍照(We climbed up the building haha)

這個地方是我們偶然經過,以為被鎖住,結果鐵門輕輕一推,就推進去了。

這裏是某一個基地,小小的,有很多雕塑模擬當時的戰爭情形,還原練兵跟射靶的情況。當然,也離廈門很近。

This place was accidentally found, thinking that it was locked. As a result, the iron door pushed forward easily haha.
This base is small. There are many sculptures to simulate the war situation at that time and restore the situation of training and shooting. Of course, it is also very close to Xiamen.

紅土溝(L36 Fortress)

(十四) 馬山觀測所(Mashan Observation Post)

馬山位於最東北角,是最接近廈門的地方。整體坑道狹小,但是小而精緻。金沙鎮的馬山,距大陸的角嶼僅2,100公尺,退潮時更只有,1800公尺,是金門本島最靠近大陸的據點,過去一直是觀測對岸海上活動及空飄文宣的軍事要塞,有「天下第一哨」之稱,今日已褪去軍事色彩,成為金門熱門觀光景點。

馬山觀測所在民國57年開挖,利用原有交通壕往下挖深,上鋪水泥形成一個人工坑道,相當隱密,裝設有3座高倍率大型望遠鏡,監控對岸海空動靜;進入觀測所大門後,需通過一段全長174公尺的戰備坑道,坑道內設有槍堡等軍事設施,天候佳時福建的獅頭山、石鼓山都清晰可見。

(十五) 成功海防坑道(ChengGong Coastal Defense Tunnel)

這個坑道的規模在金門算是蠻大的,不是指體積,而是長度。儘管外面炎炎氣候,但是靠近坑道門口就一陣涼氣,同天然的冷氣。如果你是一個人去,會蠻刺激的,走的過程中有的時候昏暗,有的時候潮濕易滑,算是一個安全得坑道。

The size of this tunnel is quite large in Kinmen, not the volume, but the length. Despite the hot weather outside, it was cool near the tunnel entrance. If you go alone, it will be very exciting. Sometimes the tunnel is dim when walking, sometimes it is wet and slippery. All in all, it is a safe tunnel with the light on both sides.

坑道內部(Inside the tunnel)

裡面還有示意圖與假軍人操練的樣子,一開始沒有注意還真的有點被嚇到。

There are also schematics and fake soldiers practicing, and I was really shocked by them at first.

假軍人(Fake soldiers)

(十六)擎天廳 明德公園 (Qingtianting Hall & Mingde Park)

這兩個景點比較特別,需要事先一個禮拜預約,並且都要對照身分證,因為是軍事重地。

首先是擎天廳,以前用來作為發號司令的地方,現在則是做教育的地方,在一個巨大的花岡石坑道內,非常雄偉。

These two attractions are special, they need to be booked one week in advance, and checked identity card because it is a important military base.
Qingtianting Hall, which used to be the commander. Now it is the place to do education. It is very majestic in a huge Huagang Stone Tunnel.

擎天廳 (Qingtianting Hall)

明德公園比較特別的地方在於,八二三砲彈的第一發就在這裡,而且一次三位軍官因此殉職,俞大維部長與胡璉將軍因為晚到因此逃過一劫,但俞大維部長的腦袋也卡了一塊砲彈碎片,直到去世才取出。

The special part of Mingde Park is that the first shot of August 23rd Artillery Battle was here, and three officers were killed. Yu Dawei and General Hu Wei escaped because of their late arrival, but the Minister of Defense Yu Dawei’s head also stuck a piece of artillery shell which was taken out until his death.

胡璉將軍以前住處(General Hu Wei’s house)

三、金門秘境探險(Adventure in Secret Area of Kinmen)

此篇收藏非正式景點,為不小心發現或為各種可以拍美照的地點。

This collection are informal attractions, for accidental discovery or for a variety of places where you can take beautiful photos.

(一) 新湖漁港 與它的消波塊(Xinhu port and its wave breaker block)

這裏是最近很受歡迎的IG打卡景點,同時也是目前我自己覺得在金門這麼多網美景點中,最用生命在當網美的地方。

因為要從外面爬進去,剛好有一個搖搖欲墜的生鏽鐵梯(現在好像掉下去了),我們要跨越這個鐵梯,中間還有海巡署大哥幫助我們爬過來(?),從這刻我覺得當網美不容易,爬過去之後,還要利用摩擦力手腳並用前進,過程中被無數的海蟑螂干擾。

This is the most popular IG check-in place recently. At the same time, it let me know it is hard to be a KOL.
First, we have to climb in from the outside, there is just a crumbling rusty iron ladder (it fell down after we left) and we have to cross this iron ladder. Meanwhile, a sea patrol helped us climb over this haha. After climbing over, we have to use the friction to move forward with our hands and feet, and the process is disturbed by countless sea otters.

爬消波塊的過程(Climbing…)

果然,拍出來的效果還是很好的,不枉我們爬進來消坡塊。

Last,it didn’t let me down and worth climbing inside the wave breaker block.

Photo credit by: Lala Chiu

(二) 不知名坑道 & 廢棄砲台(Unknown tunnel & abandoned cannon)

其實我也不知道這裡在地圖的哪裡,是偶然經過看到,只能說金門很多地方都尚未整理完畢,因此有些看起來是廢棄的模樣。

In fact, I don’t know where it is and accidentally passed by these places. It can only be said that many places in Kinmen have not been organized yet, so some places seem to be abandoned.

不知名地標 (Unknown places)

(三) 寒舍花(Hanshehua)

寒舍花是一塊在海邊,長得像花托的巨石,可惜那時候漲潮,沒有辦法看到完整的花托,只能用想像力去描繪。走在海邊的過程中,可以看到彈孔的痕跡,聽說是對岸打過來的,第一次這麼貼近歷史。

Hanshehua is a huge stone that looks like a torus at the seaside. Unfortunately, there was no way to see the complete receptacle, and it could only be depicted with imagination. Walking by the sea, you can see the traces of the bullet holes. I heard that it was hit across the bank and my first time so close to history.

海邊場景(sea scene),中間的圖片為彈孔(middle picture is bullet hole)

比較有趣得是,去到那裡的過程是需要經過坑道,蠻新奇的體驗。

The process of going there(beach) is a very novel experience that needs to go through the tunnel.

走坑道(walk in the tunnel)

(四) 看飛機的秘密基地(Secret base for seeing the airplane)

第一天來到金門的時候,就被其他小幫手帶去一個需要撥開很多草叢的地方,然後就看到一個廢棄的砲彈台,裡面有很多當時的標語。

最刺激的部分為,我們要爬上一個看起來不怎麽牢固的木梯,爬的過程都在晃動,當我們爬到頂部,就看到飛機起飛與降落離我們很近,這果然是要熟人帶啊!

When I came to Kinmen on the first day, I was taken by other Beishan helper to a place where I needed to cross over a lot of grass, and then I saw an abandoned artillery base with many slogans at the time.
The most exciting part is that we have to climb a wooden ladder that doesn’t look very firm. The process of climbing is shaking. When we climbed to the top, we saw that the planes were taking off and landing very close to us. It really needs an acquaintance to take you here!

我來金門的第一個冒險(My first adventure in Kinmen)

(五)彩色建築(Colorful building)

這是沿路看到的建築,聽也是作為水庫管理相關的,因為上面得牆壁粉刷為彩色,所以也變成新興的打卡景點。

This is the building that is seen along the road. It is also related to the management of the reservoir. Because the walls are painted in colors, it has also become an emerging hitting spot.

(六)廢棄金沙戲院(Jinsha Cinema)

這裏是位於金沙鎮廢棄的建築物,正門都鎖住了,所以我們只好從旁邊的樓梯入侵,裡面有些昏暗,到處是破碎的塑膠跟垃圾。聽說這裡以前還是很多青少年聚集打架的地方,所以連門都被踢破了。

This is an abandoned building in Jinsha Township. The main entrance is locked, so we have to invade from the stairs next to it. It is dark inside with broken plastic and rubbish everywhere. I heard that there used to be a place where many teenagers gathered to fight, so even the door was kicked.

金沙戲院(Jinsha Cinema)

最值得一看的是播映室,除了原始的大台錄影機,還有廢棄的底片散落四處,這是非常珍貴的歷史紀錄呀!

The most worthwhile thing to watch is the screening room. In addition to the original big video recorders, and the abandoned film scattered around. this is a very precious historical record!

金沙戲院內部與播映室(Inside Jinsha Cinema and its screening room)

過程中,還有當地居民走到外面的旁邊看向裡面,我和同伴還要躲避當地居民的視線,是一個不錯的體驗,不過還是要有人帶,因為平時是不能進去的哈哈。

In the process, there are local residents walking outside to look inside, my companion and I have to avoid the sight of the local residents which was a special experience. But still have someone to bring you inside, because you usually can not go in haha.

(七)復國墩玻璃山(Fuguodun glasses)

這裏特別的地方在於有一整片的「玻璃山」,近看會發現是有一塊塊拳頭大小的石頭,上面都是倒插的台灣啤酒的酒瓶,並且都是破碎的,用途是防禦敵人上岸。過程中,也在地上找到許多的彈頭。

The special part here is that there is a “Glass Mountain”. In a closer look, it will be found that there is a piece of fist-sized stone with a bottle of Taiwanese beer that is inverted and broken in order to defense the enemy.Also, many warheads were found on the ground.

玻璃山(Glasses Mountain)

途中我們看到廢棄在草叢的坦克,在金門,有不少坦克像這樣廢棄在路邊。另外,或許是觀光客太多,所以還特定設立假的兵哨台,以供遊客拍照。

On the way we saw the tanks abandoned in the grass. In Kinmen, many tanks were abandoned like this on the roadside. In addition, may be too many tourists come here, so a fake soldier’s post is also set up for tourists to take pictures.

坦克跟相關軍事設施(Tanks and military-related facilities)

(八) 小金門夜景 & 貓公石(Xiao Kinmen (Lieyu Township)Night Scene & Cat stone)

金門有分大小金門,小金門又叫烈嶼鄉。烈嶼鄉特別的地方在於更靠近廈門,而且守護神也主要不是風獅爺,而是風雞,民間習俗,白雞紅雞冠上的血,有辟邪除魔的功能,而雞可以剋制蟻害。

Kinmen has been divided into Kinmen and XiaoKinmen which is also called Lieyu Township. Lieyu Township is closer to Xiamen, and the patron saint is mainly not the wind lion god, but the wind chicken. In XiaoKinmen customs, the blood of the white chicken with red crest can expel evil spirits and demon. Also, chicken can restrain ants.

廈門夜景(Night scene of Xiamen)

主要我們是來到貓公石這裏拍照,貓公石我本來以為是一個長得像貓的巨石,結果是一顆一顆巨大的紅色石頭,外形因海水侵蝕都不相同,石頭的大小如同臺灣野柳一樣,最特殊的是它如蜂窩般的外表,別的地方無法看到。

「貓公」的由來在閩南語中,是形容顏面坑坑洞洞、凹凸不平之醜男子為「貓公」,所以坑坑洞洞的石頭也因此被命名為「貓公石」。

Mainly we came to the cat stone to take pictures here. In the beginning, I thought it was a huge stone like a cat. Later, I realized that cast stone is a huge red stone. The shape is different because of water erosion. The most special part is its honeycomb-like appearance, which cannot be seen anywhere else.
The origin of “Cats” comes from Taiwanese. It is a “cat” that describes the face of a hole and a ugly man. Therefore, the stone in the hole is named “Cat Stone”.

貓公石(Cat Stone)(資料來源 Reference : Click)

(九)歐厝沙灘-沙灘上的戰車(Oucuo Beach and its tank)

如果說要推薦金門的沙灘,歐厝絕對是我心目中的第一名,除了沙子細軟,連綿一片,如果不會游泳也沒關係,這裏為沙岸,所以只要在近處,都不會有砂石刺腳。

If you want to ask the recommended beach of Kinmen, Oucuo is definitely the first place in my mind because the sand there is soft and continuous. If you can’t swim, it doesn’t matter. It is a sandbank with no stone or rock to sting your feet.

歐厝與坦克(Oucuo and tank)

這裡最有名的是卡在沙灘上的坦克,但是它被淹沒得很快,才過不到半年,從本來可以看到車輪,到現在看到上半部,從入口走到坦克也需要七到八分鐘左右。但是也因為這樣,使這個景點特別。

The most famous here is the tank stuck on the beach, but it was submerged quickly. Only after half a year, from the original can see the wheel to the upper half of the tank. It needs seven to eight minutes to arrive tank from the entrance. It is this tank makes Oucuo special.

(十) 新前墩雨傘巷(Umbrella Lane in XinQiandun)

這裏也是IG打卡景點,就是一條約莫500公尺的「雨傘巷」,彩色的雨傘被懸掛在天上,尤其在陰雨綿綿之後剛放晴的背景下,更添詩意。

It is also an IG check-in spot, which is an “Umbrella Lane” with 500 meters. The colored umbrellas are hung in the sky, especially in the background of the shine after the rain which is poetic.

雨傘巷(Umbrella Lane), Photo credit by: Lala Chiu

中間的小插曲是我們找到以前的防空洞,我們沒有進去,一來不知道可否進去,二來很多的蚊蟲,我們沒有帶防蚊液。但是下次還有機會來可以冒險看看。

When we took the picture and we found the previous air-raid shelter. We didn’t go in because We didn’t know if we could go in and there were mosquitoes and we didn’t bring mosquito repellent. I will take a look if I have next chance.

防空洞(air-raid shelter)

(十一) 后豐港公車亭與鱟(Houfenggang bus stop and Horseshoe Crab)

客棧的朋友,同時也是金門駐縣藝術家程小刀,在金門后豐港公車亭有她的創作。第一眼看到的就是大隻的鱟,而且是公母結合,在點點水光/星空之中遨遊,非常美麗,並且整個公車亭都跟金門在地風俗跟特色結合。

最珍貴的是,可以看到藝術家的創作過程,儘管小刀說會很無聊,但是我覺得這像是在看一場藝術表演,藝術不是只有成品,過程也是。

A friend met in Beishan inn, who is also the artist of the Kinmen County, Cheng Xiaodao, has her creation at the FHoufenggang bus stop in Kinmen. The first thing I saw was a big horseshoe crab, and it was a combination of male and female. It was very beautiful in the water/starry sky, and the whole bus stop was combined with Kinmen customs and features.
The most precious thing is that you can see the artist’s creation process. Although Xiaodao said it was very boring, I think it was like watching an art performance. Art is not only a finished product, but the process is also.

鱟(Horseshoe Crab)

小刀是一個豪爽的人,我很喜歡她,常常會聽她談到教育跟社會議題,本身多才多藝而且經歷豐富,是一個非常特別的人,如果有機會來北山,可以跟她認識!

Xiaoda is a bold person and I like her very much. I often heard that she talked about education and social issues. She is versatile and experienced. If you has the opportunity to come to Beishan, you can meet her!

公車亭與創作(Bus stop and creation)

(十二) 中堡藍曬圖(Blue Print)

早期施工的工程圖複製無法使用影印(影印機是比較晚期的科技了), 而重描又很費工,所以發展出用感光定影的複製圖面技術。 這種複製方式一直到現在,除了技術比較進步外,其實核心流程都差不多, 這也顯示了這種複製圖面方式的方便、可靠、廉價及穩定性。(資料來源:Click)

台南有藍曬圖,但來到金門發現這裡也有,就決定前往。可以看到圖片中的藍曬圖,這是一個撞球室,聽說裡面的擺設真的是撞球室,上面還掛著國旗。

The copying of the engineering drawings of the early construction could not use photocopying (the photocopier is a relatively advanced technology), and the re-drawing was very labor-intensive, so the reproduction of the photo-fixing technology was developed. This kind of copying method has been used now. In addition to the relatively advanced technology, the core processes are similar, which also shows the convenience, reliability, low cost and stability of this copying method. (Source: Click)
There is blue prints in Tainan, but when I came to Kinmen and found it here also. You can see the blue print in the picture which shows a pool room and I heard that the display inside the house before was really a pool room with a national flag hung on the wall.

中堡藍曬圖(Blue Print)

(十三) 復國墩日出 & 南山林道夕陽(Fuguodun sunrise & Nanshan Forest Road sunset)

去離島一定要看的就是日出與日落。我們去整個金門的幾乎最東邊-復國墩看日出,幸好那天的天氣很好,沒有太多雲霧遮擋,一顆真的是蛋黃完整形狀的太陽升起,這是我目前看過做完整的日出。

Sunrise and sunset are must be seen the scene when going to the island. We went to almost the easternmost part of the Kinmen — Fuguodun to watch the sunrise and fortunately the weather was very good with not too much cloud. The sun is the full shape of the egg yolk which is the most completed sunrise I have seen so far.

復國墩日出 (Fuguodun sunrise)

我們去南山林道附近的沙灘看日落,剛好對面可以看到廈門,另一邊則是港口通往小金門跟廈門的,可以期待有一天到廈門去旅遊。這邊的夕陽非常美麗,每分每秒都長得不太一樣。

We went to the beach near Nanshan Forest Road to watch the sunset and we saw Xiamen on the opposite side, and on the other side to the port to XiaoKinmen and Xiamen. The sunset here is very beautiful, and every minute has its own scene.

南山林道夕陽(Nanshan Forest Road sunset)

(十四)陳清吉洋樓(ChenQingji Western Style House)

這裏是我來金門第一個去的洋樓,這裡本來是鎖起來的,後來可以進來,門口有一個巨大的雞蛋樹。外觀來看有點小暗,不過還是走進去參觀這棟三層樓高的遺跡。

Here is the first western style house I went to in Kinmen. It was originally locked up. Later we could come in and there was a huge egg tree at the door. The appearance is a bit dark, but we still walked in to visit this three-story ruins.

其實這邊有陸續整修,只是尚未完成,不過因為是木製地板,所以走樓梯的時候有點晃動,走在一般的地板也會特別小心翼翼。觀察這棟建築,機能非常完整,像是閣樓、書房等等都是,細部的花紋也非常精美,評估要價不菲。推薦如果想看比較完整的洋樓,陳清吉會是其中一個很棒的選擇。

In fact, there have been renovations here, but they have not been completed yet.The floors were made of wooden , so they are a little shaken when walking the stairs, and we were particularly careful when walking on the floor. Observing this building, the function is very complete, like the attic, the study, etc., and the details of the building are also very beautiful which seems to be expensive. If you want to see a relatively completed western style house , ChenQingji will be one of the best choices.

陳清吉洋樓內部(inside the ChenQingji Western Style House)

(十五) 塔山電廠金龜尾石頭城堡(Tashan Power Plant and its castle)

首先要先介紹是因為「浯島秘境Quemoy Adventure」這個社團而來到這裡,週末都會開團去平時不會有觀光客來的秘境,前面提到的玻璃山也是。這一次來到塔山發電廠的海灘,同時也是胡璉將軍海葬的地方,並且意外發現小艇坑道。

First of all, we must introduce a FB group called “Quemoy Adventure”. They will plan event on weekends for exploring secret area. The glass mountain mentioned above is also from Quemoy Adventure. This time we came to the beach of Tashan Power Plant, where was also the place where General Hu Wei was buried, and accidentally discovered the tunnel which can be used in walkway and a waterway.

塔山發電廠海邊(Beach near Tashan Power Plant)

走了一段路看到以前廢棄的碉堡,小小探險一番,適合坐在這裡一個下午。沿路發現新的IG打卡景點跟野生風獅爺,是這趟旅程的收穫。

After a long walk, we saw the abandoned bunker and it is suitable for sitting here for an afternoon. More, we discovered new IG check-in spots along the road and wild wind lion god.

廢棄碉堡(abandoned bunker)

(十六) 大帽山跟小艇坑道(Da Mao Mountain and its tunnel)

坑道內部(Inside the tunnel)

這裏很冒險,需要先看潮汐時間,退潮後可以看到一個大坑道,想以想像沒有水的翟山坑道。裡面有岔路,聽說其中一條通往軍營,之前的小幫手還被國軍追趕,在這裡上演大逃殺。

It is very adventurous here. You need to look at the tide time first. You can see a big tunnel after the tide. There is a road inside, I heard that one of them led to the military camp. The former Beishan helper was also chased by the national army, where a big escape was staged haha.

(十七) 花崗石醫院(Abandoned Hospital)

這裡是廢棄的醫院,本來覺得沒有很可怕,但是後來因為越走越深和越暗,就轉頭回原路走回出口,途中有看到手術室跟一些病房,當下含我只有三個人,如果要去探險,建議還是要至少6、7人左右。

This is an abandoned hospital. I didn’t think it was terrible at first, but then I turned back to the exit while going deeper and darker,. I saw the operating room and some wards on the way. There are only three people in the moment. If you want to explore, it is recommended to be at least 6 or 7 people at a time.

醫院門口(Hospital)

(十八) 小長城-峰上巡檢司(Feng shang xun jian si)

峰上巡檢司(Feng shang xun jian si)

巡檢司為以前的派出所,這裡是來防治海盜的地方。這邊特別的地方只在於它的城牆很像長城。

Xun jian si is the former police station where to fight pirates. The special part here is that its walls are like the Great Wall.


四、尋找風獅爺(Search for Wind Lion God)

尋找風獅爺這個活動變成來金門必玩,是因為金門目前統計有103尊(數字都會持續更新),風獅爺有大有小,有的藏身隱密,有的高大威武,而且長得都不一樣,更是帶有不同的故事,並且可以跟隨風獅爺的腳步遊金門。

“Searching for the wind lion god” has become a must-do activity in Kinmen because there are currently 103 wind lion gods in Kinmen (the numbers will continue to be updated). Some wind lion gods are hidden in secret places, some are tall and mighty, and all of them looks totally different with different stories.

「尋找風獅爺」也成為我來金門拍攝影片的主題,建議幾個方式快速認識風獅爺:

“Searching for Wㄥind Lion God” also became my video theme in this trip.I recommend two ways to know wind lion god more quickly.

  1. 搭台灣好行公車(E線-尋找風獅爺):主要帶你看金沙與金湖的風獅爺,大部分的風獅爺也的確在金沙鎮,一天就帶你看63尊風獅爺加上導覽,但是票價一日是400元。

1.Take bus(Taiwan trip)(E Route): You can see 63 wind lion gods in
Jinsha and Jinhu Township (Most of wind lion gods are in Jinsha) with 400 NTD / day.

台灣好行公車路線(bus route)

2. 風獅爺文化坊:在得月樓旁邊,主要是賣風獅爺的紀念品,更特別的是他們有一幅大的風獅爺分佈圖加上風獅爺照片。

2. Wind Lion Gods souvenir store: Mainly sells the souvenir of wind lion god and there is a big map of wind lion god allocation.

風獅爺分佈圖 Wind Lion Gods map

還是先稍微介紹一下風獅爺,這先說到金門的地形,金門四周無山,只有中間有丘陵,冬季東北風特別強烈,更由於歷代兵亂,植披遭受到嚴重破壞,使得金門受風沙之苦,就有幾個村落因風沙埋落而遷村。所以早期設立風獅爺得目的為祈求免於風沙,後來結合閩南道教以風獅收風的習俗,轉為鎮風煞、防禦風災的守護神也兼具防治蟻害、斷路衝溪煞及居家平安的多功能型神祇。

Let me introduce the wind lion god first. There are no mountains around Kinmen but hills in the central. The northeast wind is particularly strong in winter, and the vegetation has been seriously damaged due to the turmoil during wars. Thus, several villages moved to other places because of the wind and sand. In early establishment of the Wind Lion Gods were aimed at exempting from the wind and sand. Later, in combination with the custom of the Minnan, the patron saint of the town also defense typhoon , protect against ants, and transportation accidents.

那麼到底哪裡可以找到風獅爺?(Where can we find Wind Lion God?)

通常都藏身在聚落中的村口、傳統建築的屋頂上、廟宇的某個角落或是甚至被人們遺忘的某個廢棄民宅內,並且因為不同年代的材質、造型、塑造工藝技巧,附著不同的故事,增添一些神祕的人文色彩。

They are usually hidden in the village entrance of the settlement, on the roof of the traditional building, in a corner of the temple or even in an abandoned house that has been forgotten by people. Due to the different materials, shapes, craftsmanship techniques, these wind lion gods have different stories.

「尋找風獅爺不是找石頭而已,而是挖掘金門的人文風貌。」(Searching for wind lion gods isn’t finding the stone but explore Kinmen’s Humanities.)

限於時間,沒有辦法一一找出所有的風獅爺,所以會就我自己主觀認為覺得特別的風獅爺做介紹,直接看影片:Click

不過還是建議大家親自去挖掘,屆時可以交流哈哈。

Limited to the time I stayed in Kinmen, I can’t find out all the wind lion gods. Thus, I will introduce the wind lion who I think is special subjectively, and you can watch the video I took directly: Click.
However, it is still recommended that you personally find wind lion gods, and then we can exchange the stories and experience haha.


五、夜遊後浦-七月流火(Houpu in the night-Ghost month)

後浦是金城的古名,金城同時也是金門的市中心,是一個古色古香的小鎮,同時聚集很多的古蹟。

後浦每天晚上七點半都有3到5小時左右的導覽可以聽,透過夜遊認識這個小鎮,但是在分享夜遊經歷之前,先分享一個小小的因緣際會,在前面提到我是因為看到一個MV(【Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover)所以對於金門開始展開想像。在後浦,我找到幾乎所有這首MV的元素,包含七月流火的燈、浯島城隍廟、閩式建築、鬼月等等,有一種想像成真的滿足感。

Houpu is the ancient name of Jincheng Township. Jincheng is also the city center of Kinmen. It is a quaint town with many monuments.
Houpu has a tour time of 3 to 4 hours every day at 7:30 in the evening. You can know this town through the night tour. Before sharing the night tour experience,I want to recall a MV mentioned before([Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer] Oriental EDM Cover) which I started to imagine the Kinmen. In Houpu, I found almost all the elements of this MV, including chiyuehliuhuo light, the Yeouido City Temple, Minnan-style building, the ghost month, etc. which makes me satisfied.

Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover

夜遊行程參考(Night tour agenda):
總兵署(Troops Headquarters)(起點 Start )→北鎮廟(Bei Zhen Temple)→將軍第(General’s Residence)→陳氏宗祠(Chen Ancestral Shrine)→內武廟(Ne Wu Temple)→浯江書院(朱子祠)(Zhuzi Shrine)→外武廟(Houpu Wu Temple)→浯島城隍廟(Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple)→陳詩吟洋樓(Chen shiyin’s Western Style House)→奎閣(Kuixing Tower/Kuige)→邱良功母節孝坊(Qiu Lianggong Mother Chastity Arch)→靈濟古寺(
Lingji Ancient Temple) →模範街(Mofan Street)(終點 End)

後浦夜晚(Houpu in the night)

對於後浦用三個字形容:復古、閩南建築、書香味兒。(Three words describe Houpu: Old-style, Minnan-style architecture and bookish)

剛好有一個採訪活動是遊後浦之後的感想,當對方問會怎麼描述後浦,我用了以上三個詞,我就印象深刻的建築物分享心得:

This is my thought after visiting Hou Pu and I will share the experience of the buildings that I was impressed with:

1.總兵署(Troops Headquarters)

總兵署(Troops Headquarters)

「清金門鎮總兵署」原是明萬曆辛丑年(西元1601年)進士許獬讀書的地方,名為「叢青軒」,清康熙十九年 (西元 1680 年) 設金門鎮總兵署,首任總兵陳龍,考量金門城經歷明末多次兵禍, 原有的千戶所城已不能使用,而后浦人丁旺盛等因素,在康熙廿一年將總兵署從金門城遷到此處,之後經過多次改建,規模也屢有擴大,後來兩側有部分拆除始成現在規模。

這裏因為是以前的衙門,所以建築群很有「官氣」,裡面也有很多示意的假人與當地在明清時候的歷史資料,比較特別的是靠近大門有一棵上百年的樹,第一次來得時候這裏還在演台戲,特有鄉下家裏的感覺。

Troops Headquarters was originally the place where the scholars of the Ming Dynasty (1601) were named “Cong Qingxuan”. In the 19th year of Qing Dynasty(AD 1680), the Kinmen General Armament Department was set up. Chen Long, the first general in Kinmen, considered that Kinmen experienced many military disasters at the end of the Ming Dynasty. The original thousand-household city could no longer be used, and more and more people live here, the General Armed Forces moved from thousand-household City to troops headquarters nowadays. After several renovations, the scale has been expanded frequently, and later some of the two sides were demolished and now scale.
Because it is the former trick, the building complex is very “official”. There are also many fake figures and historical materials of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The special one is that there is a tree for hundreds of years near the gate and I felt the feeling of my hometown.

2. 浯島城隍廟(Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple)

MV裡面的浯島城隍廟(Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple in MV)

金門以前稱為「浯島」,《浯島城隍廟》 對於金門人最重要的地方父母神 — 城隍爺,每年的農曆四月十二日會舉辦「迎城隍」,城隍爺將會遶境讓所有的妖魔鬼怪都不敢現身, 金門人認為這是每年為盛大的宗教盛事,祈求未來一年的風調雨順。 浯島城隍廟為傳統閩建築格局,從山門看過去,就像是古代的官署。 黑白無常與六房司羅列在兩旁,分別是分財帛司、福德司、衡文司、採訪司、速報司、功德司,在大殿的正中央是邑主城隍爺,隔壁就是城隍爺的司法部門-解冤司。( 資料來源:金門觀光局)

同時,浯島城隍廟更是先於總兵署建立的建築,因為都是要等安定好,問過這邊的神明動土沒問題,才能建造其他建築。

Kinmen was called “Wu Dao”, “Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple” is one of the most important gods for the Kinmen people. The annual Lunar New Year will be held on April 12, Wu Dao Cheng Huang will make all the demon ghosts do not dare to show up. The Kinmen people think that this is a grand religious event every year, praying for the good weather in the coming year. (Source: Kinmen Tourism Website)
At the same time, Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple was built before Troops Headquarters, because it is necessary to wait for stability and ask the gods here to move without problems, in order to build other buildings.

3. 邱良功母節孝坊(Qiu Lianggong Mother Chastity Arch)

要獲得官方的貞節牌坊非常不容易,首先你要守寡之下,培育兒女,而且兒女要有成就才能獲頒此牌坊。特別點出的是下面有八隻獅子,只有其中一隻是彩色的,聽說是這下面唯一的母獅子,管理一群公獅子。

It is not easy to get a Chastity Arch. First of all, you must be widowed, nurture your children, and your children must be successful in order to be awarded this arch. In particular, there are eight lions below, only one of which is colored. I heard that this is the only female lion below, managing a group of male lions.

邱良功母節孝坊跟他的獅子(Qiu Lianggong Mother Chastity Arch and its lions)

4. 浯江書院(朱子祠)(Zhuzi Shrine)

一進來門口,有很特殊的是用假的石頭書堆成的矮石柱,以此勉勵金門人認真唸書,前面提到我覺得後浦很有書香味,是因為金門這地方出了很多進士,比同時期的台灣多出了1.5倍,再來到處是書院來看,知道文風鼎盛。並且朱子,當時有名的文豪,還親自來過金門。

When I came in at the door, there was a special kind of short stone pillars made of fake stone books, which encouraged the Kinmen people to study hard. As mentioned earlier, I think that Houpu is very “bookish” because Kinmen has a lot of scholars in this place which is 1.5 times more than Taiwan in the same period and there are many Academy of Classical Learning. Zhu Zi, a famous writer at the time, also personally came to Kinmen.

浯江書院(朱子祠)(Zhuzi Shrine)

5. 模範街(Mofan Street)

模範街(Mofan Street)

這條街不長,但是兩邊插滿國旗,有台灣也有中國的,這是一位富商所建造的,街屋的格局排列非常整齊,連續的單拱拱圈更成優美的線條,極富建築藝術之美,期望可以作為其他街道的模範,故稱為模範街。

This street is not long, but it is full of Taiwan and China national flags on both sides. This is built by a wealthy merchant. The layout of the street houses is very neatly arranged. The continuous single arch arches have beautiful lines with the beauty of art, expected can be a model for other streets, so it is called Mofan Street.

另外,我看到金門跟台灣在鬼月很不一樣的地方在於-金門習俗,家家戶戶會掛起「七月流火燈」, 「七月」,是最慈悲的祭祀月,祭祀無人供奉的好兄弟,「普提心燈渡眾生,浯島流火照千古」,夜裡閃爍的亮燈是為了停留在世間的好兄弟引路。在夜晚的後浦掛起,特別的溫馨與浪漫。

In addition, I saw that the difference between Kinmen and Taiwan in the Ghost Month — in the Kinmen custom, every household will hang “chiyuehliuhuo light”, July in the lunar calendar is the most compassionate sacrifice month, worship the good brothers who are not worshipped. The flashing light hanging in the night are guided the good brothers who stay in the world which are especially warm and romantic.

七月流火燈(chiyuehliuhuo light)

六、尾聲(Last but not Least)

「最好的旅行不是透過旅程反思過去,而是記住學習如何享受跟體驗當下。」(The best travel is not to reflect your past but learn how to enjoy and experience present.)

本來定義這一次的旅程是跟自己對話,但是想想為什麼要這麼累呢?我所欠缺的是在乎當下的自己,每一次都活在過去,回想起來還真的是浪費時間。

在金門的這段日子應該是我最沒有負擔的時光,沒有課業、沒有工作、沒有做不完的to-do-list,每天不停認識新的人、認識客棧的朋友,與不同的背包客交流,唯一煩惱的是每天去哪裡玩。

當我回過神的時候,發覺已經好久沒有回想過去與擔心不確定的未來,那樣純粹的自己,單純快樂的自己,終於回來了。謝謝緣分讓我與北山古洋樓相遇,這裏有最熱心與善良的人們,讓我知道如何享受當下,有時候別太計較輸贏對錯,笑笑就過去。

The journey that original purpose is to reflect my past, but I think it is tired. What I lack is to care about the present, and every time I live in the past which is really a waste of time to think back.
In the days of Kinmen, it should be the time I have the most unburdened time. I don’t have any class, no job, no to-do-list. I meet new people every day and have the conversation with different backpackers. The only annoyance is where to go every day.
When I saw back, I had not thought about the past and worried about the uncertain future for a long time. I feel the pure happy finally. Thank you for letting me meet with Beisha where the most enthusiastic and kind people here and let me know how to enjoy the present. Sometimes, don’t care too much about winning or losing, and laugh.

“I held my breath every time

I tried to keep myself dry

But did I ask too much?

If I could do it again

Would you believe what I said That I still want that rush……” — Clean Bandit 《Stronger》

在金門受傷的那段時間,特別心神不寧,尤其在太武山海印寺求籤與朋友幫忙求籤都顯示著未來不是太看好,心情有點小沮喪。但是當客棧的朋友晚上帶著我去關公廟拜拜,說希望可以讓我平安的時候,忽然意識到,我忘記看好的一面,有這麼多人關心我,還有滿滿的善意,甚至我給出的善意也是,這些才是最真實的,那些擔心不是忽視,而是更專注該專注的。

During the time I injured, I was particularly uneasy. Especially in the Haiyin Temple in Taiwu Mountain, I asked for the future work which showed not so good which made me little depressed. But when the inn’s friend took me to Guan Gong Temple to worship at night, saying that they hoped me to feel safe, I suddenly realized that I forgot to look good. There are still so many people caring about me with full of goodwill. Those fears are not ignored, but more focused on what I have now.

「害怕的同時,別忘了人心的溫暖也是真的。」(Don’t forget the warm from people around you when feeling scared.)

謝謝北山的你&妳,更謝謝蔡大哥當初讓我來到這裏,認識世界上最愛冒險跟瘋狂的一群人,讓我到異國一年的工作之前,可以再次感受這塊土地的溫度。

有緣,再見。

Thank you, Beishan. Here, I met the world’s most adventurous and crazy people which let me feel the warmth of this land again before I go to work in a foreign country for one year.
Goodbye.

金門打工換宿-北山古洋樓背包客棧(180823)

「什麼!你要去金門?」、「你要去買菜刀哦?」、「那那裡不是到處高粱嗎?」一直是我來打工換宿前被問到的問題
為什麼選擇金門而不是花東或其他熱門版上地點的原因 好像自己也說不出一個確切的答案。一開始只是很單純的想到外面看看,對於一個還未踏出台灣本島的我來說一直很想藉著打工換宿一個人去完全不熟的地方旅行 去認識那裡的人去體驗當地的生活同時也認識不同的自己。「正因為這一切都是陌生,才有發現新的可能」 因為這樣我來到了金門♥
8月23日
到金門的班機很多也有三家航空可以選擇 大概一個小時多就到了(第一次搭飛機的女子真的從一大早就興奮到晚上Post images
到了金門後馬上就有一群可愛的小幫手們迎接 放下行李以為是先回民宿 結果依照小幫手的熱情 當然是先帶你到處吃和玩阿
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☑️ 得月樓—清末民初的時候因為人們生活辛苦掀起了移民南洋的風潮 主人黃輝煌也是其中之一 因為經商致富後回金門蓋了這座洋樓
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左邊那座高樓就是「得月樓」是民國22年黃主人加蓋的 目的是為了防禦海盜
By the way 金門大部分景點都有專人導覽 可以更認識整個建築文化和特色喔 大推👍
☑️823夜行軍—是金門一年一度為了紀念當時823炮戰的國軍在夜裡行軍的活動 全長10公里 一路上都會封建而且不開燈 啟程從中山陵到終點古寧頭
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一聽到要在漆黑中徒步走完10K 真的嚇傻 但一路上邊走邊聊天也就這樣完成了
第一天的金門之旅就遇到這樣的體驗也真的很幸運
☑️ 北山古洋樓背包客棧—古寧頭大戰時曾經輪為共軍佔領 牆上的彈孔和斑駁的外牆訴說著一層層的歷史故事
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這裡也是我這次在金門的家
第一天在這裡所遇到的熱情和溫暖已經讓我其待接下來的旅程💓

金門打工換宿 遊記篇

第一次打工換宿就幸運來到了一個到處充滿歷史故事的地方-金門♥
接下來就來分享一下這幾天去的景點👇👇
✅莒光樓
–建造的目的是為了表彰古寧頭與八二三炮戰戰役的軍人 是金門戰地精神的象徵
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✅浯江書院
–金門原有四大書院 浯江是目前金門僅存的一座 裡面供奉著朱子據說朱熹曾在這裡講課 因此人們就建了浯江書院來紀念
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✅山后民俗文化村
–是目前金門保留最完整的古聚落 裡面的房子排列很整齊 進到這真的會讓人覺得置身另一個時空欸
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✅陳清吉洋樓
–外觀看有點舊舊的但深入一看會發現洋樓的內部非常大格局也規劃的完整和建築雕刻也很精細(讓人不得不佩服前人的技術和雕工💯
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✅獅山砲陣地
–整個坑道都位於花崗岩內(因此濕氣蠻重的xD )這裡有展有著各種大小的炮彈 在第二次世界大戰 韓戰 越戰都曾經使用過 by the way 獅山砲陣地每天還有六場的砲操演出 可以清楚了解當時炮彈發射和裝載的過程喔)
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金門也許不像大都市那樣有著便利的交通和高樓大廈 但這裡的美像是披了一層歷史和時間的薄紗 需要你來慢慢感受❤

上次介紹了一些金門比較著名的景點,最後一篇想來分享在這次的旅行中自己心目中最喜歡的秘境, (但看來看去好像最多的還是這裡的海了✌
⬇️虎堡
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⬇️歐厝
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(聽說之前的戰車露出的部分更多 現在幾乎都快被沙覆蓋了)
⬇️南山夕陽
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(那天天氣很好超幸運能看到夕陽光是四散開來的樣子😍)
⬇️這裡是哪我也忘了 某座山的山腰ㄅ
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⬇️小金門貓公石海灘
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⬇️小金門的某個碉堡(這裡的名字我又忘了QQ
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⬇️小金門夜景&星空
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(天氣好的話 金門真的抬頭就能看到滿天的星星🌟)
原本在來之前也沒想到金門會美成這樣 但來到這裡才發現每一天都得到了比預期多更多的收穫和回憶。
對我來說金門最美的風景絕對還少不了這裡每一位熱情又溫暖的人❤
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(我在北山古洋樓的家人們)
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在這短短的15天裡我看到了各種樣貌的金門,美麗的、純樸的、平靜的、滄桑的、有著沉重歷史的…
不論是哪一種樣貌的金門,都會讓人捨不得離開這裡,也讓人想再次的回來
好感謝在這趟旅行中的所有美好的一切♥
我們下次見!金門
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“ What you really need is what you miss, not what you have.”

逃離生活計畫之金門遊記(180823)

你有多久沒有好好的讓自己過生活?
踏上金門前,我以為那裡是個荒郊野外,還有可能會碰到未爆彈的地方(原諒我的孤陋寡聞),但這十四天下來,金門成了我還想再訪無數次的地方。
在得知沒了工作的隔天,腦袋一片混亂的我什麼都不想管了,於是上網訂了機票,狠狠放自己一個假。這是我第一次的打工換宿,第一次自己去到這麼遠的地方玩。
下了飛機,租好車,前往背包客棧的路上一直都還不敢相信自己就這樣來到了金門。
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一抵達北山古洋樓,映入眼簾的就是非常古色古香的古建築,牆上都還清晰可見當年古寧頭戰役時的砲彈痕跡。一進門大家熱情的招呼,完全讓人放下初來金門的陌生感,讓我馬上覺得自己真的來對地方了。
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抵達的這天正好是八二三砲戰的六十週年,晚上跟著客棧的人一起參與了夜行軍的活動。模擬當年軍隊在晚上摸黑行軍的辛苦,我們一路從金城市區走到古寧頭,足足走了十公里遠,雖然走到腳快不是自己的,也留下了很新奇的回憶。
金門隨處可見復古的三合院,洋樓等等古建築,每一棟都是一則活生生的歷史故事,經歷戰爭的洗禮後,在如今已回歸平靜的金門島上屹立不搖。
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除了人住的古厝,由於金門曾是重要的軍事基地,大大小小的軍營、坑道、砲塔、碉堡散落在島上。
有些經過政府的整理後重新開放給民眾體驗,有些則像是被遺忘一般的靜靜座落在島上的角落,覆蓋上一層神秘肅穆的面紗
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小金門-沙溪堡
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大金門-馬山觀測所
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路邊的廢棄軍舍
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翟山坑道
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許多砲口都有的三不打原則
有軍人工作的地方當然也少不了娛樂場所,金門曾經有約十萬名的駐軍在這小島上。電影:軍中樂園其中一景就是在金門的陽翟拍攝。短短的老街上有著各式各樣的商店:理髮廳、攝影社、茶室、冰菓店⋯⋯等等。其中我最喜歡是廢棄的電影院,以前的金門全盛時期總共有十七間的電影院,在戰爭結束,兵力大幅縮減之後便一一歇業,有些已經拆除或挪作他用,也有些保留了完整建築,靜靜的在街上看著人來人往。
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金沙戲院
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金東電影院
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陽翟老街
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鎮西文康中心
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最後一間歇業的老戲院-僑聲戲院
除了古色古香的建築特色,金門的自然景觀也是絕美。金門的潮差非常大,建功嶼就是因為潮差而有的一個特色景點,在漲潮時海水會完全覆蓋住通往建功嶼的道路直到退潮,因此想前往還得看清潮汐時間以免錯過被困在島上Post images
通往建功嶼
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海邊秘境/寒舍花
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復國墩玻璃山(為了抵擋海邊偷渡的共軍的防衛設施)
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小金門/貓公石
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歐厝沙灘 即將消失的沈睡戰車
在建功嶼沿岸的泥沙地有機會可以找到活化石—鱟的蹤跡,牠出現的時間比恐龍還要早,幾億年以來都是以差不多的樣貌存活在地球上。
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兩個禮拜下來,風景看了、美食吃了、歷史故事也聽了,卻還是有一種沒有把金門玩透的感覺,這座像是被遺忘的桃花源小島還有好多好多地方想去。
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也真的很慶幸這短短的十四天我就遇到了很棒的一群人,每天一起生活玩樂,上山下海。
相信這不會是我唯一一次踏上這裡,金門下次見。

金門北山古洋樓打工換宿之旅(180820)

在一個小小的地方,聚集了許多
來自各方的旅人。彼此的相遇和金門在地的一切讓打工換宿充滿美好的回憶。
第一次自己搭飛機到陌生的城市,一到達就被陌生的小幫手們接走,直奔海邊尋找鱟寶寶們。一切都很隨性,說走就走,悠悠哉哉。打工換宿第一天的午餐就是聽聞很久的蛋香蛋狗,就是蛋餅香腸和蛋餅熱狗的簡化。北山古洋樓背包客棧裡的客廳真的很舒服,吸引人一直呆坐在裡頭。接近傍晚時間,臨時起意決定去挖蛤蜊,一群人只剩上半身露在慈湖湖面的畫面應該挺有趣的。晚餐的快炒嚐到了炒沙蟲的味道,其實外表長得就像一起拌炒的豆芽菜,不過口感有點像橡皮筋。
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⬆這是北山古洋樓背包客棧
第二天的早餐是金門版的廣東粥和油條,粥裡的米燉煮到看不見米粒,而油條則是比較像紮實的麵包不同於台灣本島蓬鬆的口感。接下來,跟著鱟博士的腳步到水試所看看可愛海龜。午餐又和小幫手們一起吃快炒,我點的鄉菜十分下飯,有點類似客家小炒。下午到收費十元的瓊林坑道走走逛逛,附近的住家房屋有漂亮的花磚和裝飾。距離北山車程不遠之處的李光前將軍廟裡記載將軍的英勇事蹟,旁邊的天之桂貢糖工廠老闆熱情地邀請我們參觀,拿了好多貢糖讓我們試吃,桂花口味讓我印象最深刻。在金城裡的一把蔥是明信片控必敗的一家店,創作者的手繪圖案,記錄了金門特有的動物和景點,再加上文青的詩詞,立馬買了一張準備寄給身為陳繁齊狂熱粉絲的大學室友。晚上享受到管家大哥的好手藝,和大家在涼快的中庭共進加入昨天挖的蛤蜊的晚餐。
第三天的凌晨,熱血地衝一波看日出,到了車程四十分鐘的南石滬,可惜了我們這一大群人的熱血,小幫手加客人超過十人,因為雲層太厚,沒看見美麗的日出。中午到陳景蘭洋樓,是維護完整的一個熱門景點。附近有個佑昇小吃的味道也不錯。客人哥哥下午帶我們到了私房景點小艇坑道和網美必拍的消波塊,腿短的我爬得好辛苦。回背包客棧前還到迎賓館裡看看鄧麗君,再到畜試所買青草地牛奶。傍晚約了同時在金門其他民宿打工換宿的大學同學。在赴約前先自己一個人到莒光樓晃晃,複習一下金門兩個重要的戰役。在異地見到舊朋友的心情很興奮,邊吃邊聊,邊聊邊走。去看了晚上點燈後勝過白天的得月樓。最後跟同學和她的朋友們小酌聊天。
第四天早上離開同學的住處後,到金城的標記小吃店吃炸蛋餅,巧遇了民宿的客人。打掃民宿結束後,跟著幾個可愛的小幫手騎車去吃粉圓冰。下一站是翟山坑道,是可以讓船迴轉的超大坑道。接著,我們騎到歐厝沙灘,超大超美的沙灘,讓我們這群女生開心地歡呼!這兒的沙灘質地特別鬆軟,踩起來挺舒服的。再拍完了網美照後,來到了得月樓,聆聽解說員介紹建築物的小巧思,細看出洋者當年打拼的成果。參觀完得月樓後,我們到隔壁的金道地餐館吃蚵仔煎。回到民宿休息了一會兒,又準備出門,前往參加夜行軍。今天是823戰役的60週年,當地單位舉辦了夜行軍的活動,讓大家體驗軍人的辛苦。為了模擬真實情況,還特地將行走沿路的路燈關掉。十公里的路程在我們這一大群人的吵吵鬧鬧中度過了。
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⬆歐厝沙灘
第五天下午和小幫手去吃模範街的阿公豆花,這家的豆花選料不限幾樣的!!之後去走了大學同學推薦的金城民防坑道,半小時的路程中有兩段體驗區,第一個是黑暗坑道體驗,第二個除了沒有燈光還加上砲聲,超怕黑的我,緊緊抓著朋友的手感受當年金門居民的害怕。晚餐吃楊家小吃,麵類都挺不錯的,蒸蛋湯的外型很可愛。吃飽喝足後,我們出發到文化局演藝廳觀看週年紀念活動-朱宗慶打擊樂,免費的活動怎麼能錯過,還好有提前到有位置可以坐。
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⬆阿公豆花
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⬆楊家小吃的蒸蛋湯
第六天是顧家日,不過剛好遇到下雨,大部分的小幫手都待在家。傍晚的時候,客人約我和一位小幫手一起到山外跟他的在地朋友吃燒烤,二話不說就答應了。俊輝碳烤很好吃呢~特別是羊肉串,外表酥脆,內裡柔軟。今天有三個外國客人,好久沒練英文會話,在睡前用爛爛的英文跟客人小聊了一會兒。
第七天出遊日,很開心有昨晚一起吃飯的在地朋友開車載我們出去玩。第一站是823戰史館,印象深刻的是裡面展示了許多當年兩岸互相投遞的宣傳品。接著到老店談天樓吃酒釀湯圓,發酵味有點重,吃完湯圓以後很有飽足感。補充體力後前往網美必拍景點-新湖漁港的消波塊。美美的照片背後總是有辛苦故事…爬上消波塊真的不容易,不過這次是第二次去了,上手多了。不過我們的客人沒爬過,怕到快哭了,哈哈。下一站是陽翟,是電影軍中樂園的拍攝地點。其中有個特別真實的場景是特約茶室,裡面還放有侍應生的黑白大頭照,說實話那照片嚇到我了。今日第五站到獅山砲戰地看砲操表演,一個口令一個動作的砲操讓人震撼。第六站金門民俗文化村,我喝了杯石花凍,冰冰涼涼的有點像愛玉的感覺。肚子餓了,前往山西拌麵。除了拌麵之外,麥芽雞和水晶凍肉也很不錯。山西拌麵的背後有個感人的小故事,據說當時的士兵跟老闆說他今天生日,但是在當時的背景不會有特別慶生的活動。直到那位士兵吃了拌麵後才發現,老闆在拌麵的底部偷偷加了一顆蛋為他慶生。現在的山西拌麵裡也有藏著一顆蛋。以吃做為今天的最後收尾。
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⬆陽翟大街
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⬆談天樓酒釀湯圓
第八日起了個大早跟著小幫手們到建功嶼,很幸運地看到小小的鱟!走了一些路,肚子餓起來了,回程路上在金城吃了進麗小籠包,跟印象中的不一樣,皮很厚就像小包子一樣。中午小睡了一下,我獨自到特約茶室展示館晃晃,聽聽軍中樂園的故事。接著到得月樓旁邊的金水國小,看看當年出洋者回饋鄉親的貢獻。晚餐則是又回到金城,在路上巧遇了客人,於是一起去吃了集成餐廳的鍋貼和刀削牛肉麵。
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⬆小小的鱟
第九日搭船到小金門也就是烈嶼。第一站先走九宮坑道,剛好遇到漲潮,波濤洶湧的打在石頭上。鐵漢堡和勇士堡相連,裡面展示關於排雷大隊的資訊。三層樓芋頭冰更是不能錯過,他們家的香芋片也很不錯,推薦原味的香芋片。下一站湖井頭展示館裡有望遠鏡可以眺望對岸,清楚看到岸邊的標語。最後一站砂溪堡,旁邊的觀海平台景色很美,裡頭還有個小小坑道。離開前在路上看到了八達樓子,紀念當年抗日的國軍堅持不退守的精神。
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⬆砂溪堡
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⬆三層樓芋頭冰
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⬆九宮坑道
第十日下雨日,下了一整天,就待在背包客棧裡耍廢啦~睡前喝了好幾杯高粱,還嘗試加了雪碧,味道挺不錯的。
第十一日早上去了期待已久的擎天廳。擎天廳內部真的很壯觀,當年用土法煉鋼的方式打造,參與建造的人們真的很厲害。還有參觀胡璉將軍紀念館和排雷大隊紀實館。參觀行程結束後以張家牛肉麵當午餐,肉很軟嫩。下午和朋友騎車四處亂晃,去看了安歧風獅爺、藍曬圖和網美景點「為什麼來金門」。接著去吃個下午茶,久違的愜意甜點店。
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⬆擎天廳
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⬆愜意甜點
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⬆為什麼來金門
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⬆安歧風獅爺
第十二日白天時幫要好的小幫手送機,接著開始耍廢的一天。午餐托別人幫忙買了巧味香的蚵仔麵線,味道好清淡。傍晚我們一大群人跑去吃野味燒烤,比較重口味,感覺還是俊輝比較好吃。
晚上跟隔天要走的要好的長住客人聊天散步。
第十三日超早起床陪要好的客人一起去北山播音站。可惜今天是我顧家,無法去送機,希望之後能到台北去找他玩。午餐吃榕榕園的拌麵,有點像辣咖哩的口味,挺好吃的。晚餐則是和其他人一起吃老闆推薦的牛家莊合菜。
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⬆北山斷崖
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⬆北山播音牆
第十四日早餐是昨天買的豬肉捲餅。中午由小幫手大展廚藝煮了好多樣菜,一起在客廳裡享用。下午出發參加秘境探險團,到在太武山的金門植物園集合,一路上都是陡峭岩石還有刺刺的植物,建議穿著長褲,途中有很壯觀的美景,也發現了以前軍方暗中佈置的哨口,下山前特別去看了有名的「毋忘在莒」。晚餐又是吃張家牛肉麵,這次我點了麻辣乾拌牛肉麵,超辣,好險我有買飲料。晚上洗好澡後,新來的小幫手們臨時起意要到北山播音牆看星星,於是再衝一波。今天是待在金門的最後一個晚上了。
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⬆太武山毋忘在莒
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⬆太武山
這趟金門打工換宿之旅豐富精彩,也認識了不少新朋友,收穫滿滿。真的很慶幸自己當初對於暑假的安排規劃,期望不久之後我能帶著其他朋友一起來探訪美麗的金門。

#金門 #打工換宿 20歲前的夏天(180816)

耶~大家好 第一次婆文就獻給打工換宿!
當初一直想說暑假一定要去一個離島
為什麼只是離島ㄋ
因為 沒錯 就是 錢不夠
第一次自己坐飛機真的粉ㄐㄩㄣˇ張
就是各種糟糕情況都要想一次XD
總之落地的時候還是好興奮啊😝
正文開始⬇️(文長圖多慎入)
📍景點篇
✈️大金門系列
1、馬山觀測所
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走了挺長的坑道才能到觀測站
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這是從望遠鏡裡面拍的!
可以看到插著中國國旗的船
(而且不用投錢XD)
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2、金沙戲院
在這邊可以順便逛逛沙美老街~
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3、北山播音牆、斷崖
24小時都有軍中情人鄧姐麗君美妙的聲音播送著
(其實是因為它壞了關不掉哈哈哈)
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4、總兵署
金門每天晚上7:30都有不同講師的夜間導覽在總兵署集合~
我們那天聽的是有名的陳成基老師!
他的最高紀錄可是講到半夜2:28!超狂!
我覺得聽完之後可以更了解我們到底在金門看到什麼
建築又是如何構成的
才不會到每個古蹟都是走馬看花的感覺
然後腳會很酸XD
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5、太武山
在一個神清氣爽的下午決定去爬山!
這裡完全是沒有階梯
坡度也都蠻陡的
爬到毋忘在莒大概1.6公里山路ㄅ
我不知道算不算長但我累爆就是了
真的幸好沒太陽
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6、得月樓
這個水頭聚落算是以前好野人的村莊
而這就是以前為了防禦海盜的槍樓
建議聽導覽才可以知道機關是什麼!
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7、古寧頭戰史館
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8、翟山坑道
這是我來金門前最熟悉的坑道
課本上最愛放了
看到真的的感覺很酷!
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9、歐厝沙灘
這裡真的是我來金門看到最美的沙灘了!
又大又漂亮水很清澈沙子很白
還有一台戰車 很帥!
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10、建功嶼
要退潮才能有路走~
還可以找到野生的鱟!
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11、陽翟大街
一條古色古香不太大的大街
是電影軍中樂園裡面的場景~
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12、新湖漁港
網美拍照聖地無誤
不過在拍美照之前也是要腦袋加四肢並用才能成功爬進去ㄉ!
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13、金門民俗文化村
這裡也hen好拍
我的model姐姐超水的啦!
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14、獅山砲陣地
可以去看砲操演習還有各種砲彈的樣子
軍人真的超帥!
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15、陳清吉洋樓
就是一個好野人蓋的浮誇洋樓XD
可以遠眺太武山 View超棒
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✈️小金門系列
1、地雷展示館
這個地雷展示館也是一個坑道
裡面有一些地雷的音效想嚇人
哈哈哈哈哈哈
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2、貓公石
其實我們去的那天沒開XD
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旁邊有個海灘~~
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3、九宮坑道
沒錯
小金門跟金門一樣有無數坑道
就是躲太陽和雨的好地方!
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4、沙溪堡
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5、八達樓子
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📍美食篇
1、高粱酒本人
不可或缺
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2、高粱香腸
高粱很香
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3、高粱布朗尼
上面是高粱粒!
好吃是好吃不過我吃不太出高粱味
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4、金橙牛肉麵
這裡的牛肉麵沒讓我失望過
便宜肉多
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5、牛家莊
網路上就這家最有名!
也是有名的很有道理
一大碗只要90!
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6、豬肉餡餅
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7、進麗小籠包
它的皮比較厚
很像水煎包
但是他也有賣水煎包
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8、蛋香蛋狗
個人覺得蛋狗>蛋香
熱狗的味道比較融入
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9、魚丸麵線
由於本人不吃蚵仔
所以都會在一些蚵仔有名的餐廳點非蚵仔製品
還是很美味的!
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10、綜合滷味
金門小吃店的滷味也都不錯吃!
而且挺大盤的
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11、科記廣東粥
金門的粥都會煮到看不到也咬不到米
很像在喝湯哈哈哈
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12、阿公ㄟ豆花
真的是俗擱大碗
價錢都一樣料完全任你選
有夠好康
ps.他的珍珠是黑色粉圓是彩色
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13、三個味
黑糖粉圓爆爆冰NT.40
表現不錯👍🏻
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14、三層樓芋頭料理@小金門
本人其實極度討厭芋頭味
但我想芋頭控會為之瘋狂ㄉ
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15、桌菜
這外面沒有賣的ㄎ
是在北山的小幫手一起煮的啦~~
真的是有夠豐盛又好吃!
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📍秘境篇
1、這個地方要經過一番跋山涉水才能抵達
就是個探險隊的概念
真的豪美!
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順便採千佛手回家煮啊哈
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2、這裡摸的不是蜆仔是蛤蜊!
超大顆我的媽呀!
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3、可愛a海龜!
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4、本來是打算看日出ㄉ可是太陽沒有露臉QQ
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5、看飛機好療癒~~~
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大概就介紹到這裡啦~~
來金門打工換宿真的太值得太好玩
尤其在北山認識了太多善良可愛的人
這是最酷的事情了!
每天都認識不同的客人
每天一起在客廳裡聊天玩桌遊
每天都平凡的好特別
來了這趟金門讓我知道
原來旅行真的可以排解憂傷
原來旅行真的可以更認識自己
這14天美好的好不真實啊
還有好多故事跟感動三天三夜都說不完
我愛大家!
我會再回來ㄉ!

#分享 打工換宿注意事項 #金門 #文長(180807)

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首圖先放我這次打工換宿的地點-金門北山古洋樓背包客棧給大家看
外表歷史感滿滿但內裝真他媽的超級先進!!!很像日本的衛浴分離、有免治馬桶等~~
相信有許多人想過要離開自己熟悉的環境到其他縣市甚至其他國家闖闖
而我在在成大有無數的活動、社團、營隊可以參加
直到我升大四的這個暑假才終於有完整的一個月可以到另一個地方生活
趁這個機會分享我這次是如何找到打工換宿以及我的挑選條件
首先就是要【決定地點】
我很喜歡在台灣各地趴趴走,幾乎台灣的每個縣市都稍微玩過了
所以我的第一個挑選條件就是:離島
考慮到我想在那座未知的島上生活1個月,所以我挑選的離島都比較大
而我投了澎湖、蘭嶼、金門等多家民宿的履歷後
最快速(其實也是唯一XD)有回覆我信件的就是我們金門北山扛霸子蔡老闆大大
而且粉專上及臉書社團都有超多推薦這個客棧的留言所以就決定來了
這邊分享兩個臉書社團
1.打工換宿瘋台灣
有招人的民宿會在這裡貼民宿資訊,可以參考讚數、留言等資料決定這是不是你想要的換宿地點,
資料較豐富比較推薦(當時我也有投過書店
2.【打工換宿.背包環島】小幫手背包客專區
這邊相反,比較多是自己PO簡單自我介紹以及希望打工換宿時間,有缺人的民宿老闆會直接留言回覆你,
但建議你被回覆之後還是要自己去查民宿的相關評價
基本上在臉書上打【打工換宿】四個字會有超多社團、粉專等等可以多方比較後找最適合自己的民宿喔
再來老闆願意收你之後要再次確認【換宿內容】
看過非常多抱怨的留言及分享,就是民宿介紹上寫得不明不白,
實際上人都飛過去之後才知道自己每天要朝九晚五的工作還不支薪!!!
而我換宿的這間寫得很明白就是分【房務】或是【專長】
簡單來說就是你要每天打掃或是在你換宿期間不打掃而用繪畫、影片等專長來交換
我想我一個拖延症末期的人一定無法準時交照片於是就選了房務順便每天運動XD
而且我們暑期的小幫手超爆多幾乎都在10個上下
每個人分到的工作就相對少,通常一天不會做超過2個小時房務
然後約一個禮拜輪一次留守(其他人都掃完就出去玩你顧家的概念
也可以從信件及老闆臉書瞭解到這家民宿大致的經營方式
盡力避免被騙去當免費勞工甚麼都沒玩到
其他要注意的還有【福利相關】
因為老闆收太多人了所以我們不提供換宿以外的福利(機票、吃食都自己負擔
而且金門物價不便宜,所以就像我在台灣生活的花費再加上額外機票娛樂支出
但這些都有事先達成共識所以我都能夠接受
以及【交通方面】
金門身為超大離島代表,機車從西騎到東直線距離大約要30分鐘
北山古洋樓又在超級西北角
沒有機車或汽車真的是人生無望
我們民宿原本就有與幾家機車行合作提出小幫手專案可便宜租機車
老闆自己的車子也給我們開哈哈不想曬太陽的人大推去考駕照來這裡開車
路上都沒車超級適合新手駕駛練習開車(例如我XD
(一回台南直接被爆炸多的車流量以及倍倍增的三寶嚇死
這些食衣住行育樂技能都點好點滿之後就可以準備開玩了
一般來說離島會想到的浮潛、香蕉船,金門一律都沒有(或是只有我不知道Q
但是這裡有的更多是文化跟歷史
主要可以體驗遊玩的我認為可以分為以下幾種類型
【老建築】【戰略建築】【洋樓】【沙灘】【坑道】【風獅爺】【其他島】
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【老建築】這裡是陽翟區~~保留著以前的商店街樣貌,但幾乎都沒有在營業,我認為這裡大勝許多台灣網美景點,裡面也有軍中樂園電影在當地拍攝的照片
舉凡得月樓、莒光樓、迎賓館、總兵署等大景點也相當推薦可以來聽導覽了解當時建造的原因,相當詳盡且有趣
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【戰略建築】這裡是一定要預約才能進來的擎天廳,位於軍營裏面平常不會開放,以前是用來酬軍表演等大型娛樂地點,人工加一些簡單機械開鑿的花崗岩地洞真的令人嘆為觀止,如果有機會一定要來這裡參觀順便看帥氣軍人(X
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【洋樓】一定要提到最具代表性的陳景蘭洋樓,不得不說沒有廣角的話就真的只有幾個角度可以拍XD但是真的超級美,
這棟洋樓也曾經在戰時當過醫院、學校等功能性的臨時基地,如果能住在裡面真的有一種自己是超級有錢人的感覺~~
陳景蘭洋樓旁邊就有一片沙灘,很適合來拍拍逛逛踏踏浪
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【坑道】沒甚麼好說的必來翟山坑道,裡面販賣部的明信片也很美哈哈,這是給船走的坑道,
但是我來的這天水特別濁有點可惜,倒影沒有那麼完美(另外推薦小金門的九宮坑道,更長、更美,
水也更清浪更大XD另外開放人可以走的民防坑道、瓊林坑道等地下戰略坑道也相當推薦可以體驗看看,
行走的時間也不會太長
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【風獅爺】可能不是每個人都有興趣,但我與我的小夥伴都相當喜愛,所以我們幾乎拍遍了西南角的風獅爺,
還在東北方找到獨特的母風師爺。如果你要問我怎麼分辨公母的話,恩,你來看了就知道了
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【其他島】金門旁邊有烈嶼(小金門),大擔、小擔各種島,但並不是每個島都能登上,
這是一個相當特別的島:建功嶼!!!只有在每天退潮時間能走上去,在照片上路的盡頭就是建功嶼,
大漲潮的話你只會看到一點點的樹木跟快被淹沒的島,在這裡也可以沿路欣賞潮間帶的生態圈,
相當推薦一定要查詢漲退潮時間來走走
在這裡大家都能找到自己喜愛的景點類型
好好的悠閒的在這裡生活
說了那麼多,在金門其實收穫最多的是在北山的一群朋友
有人每天下廚煮飯填飽十幾人的胃
有人天天帶團探險發現美景並挑戰膽量
有人半夜不睡覺徹夜聊深度話題
一起講幹話,一起學香港髒話,一起學奇怪的日文
好多好多都是我意料之外的收穫
在這裡的生活很像一場夢境,有人說大部分的人是因為失戀、失業、失意而來到金門
卻在這裡得到了許多陪伴跟溫暖
每天都是充實的,灑滿陽光與青春熱血的日子
推薦你來這裡看看吧,不會後悔的
希望我的分享有幫助到一些人,謝謝你們的觀賞