金門探險記- 那些在挖掘風獅爺的日子(Kinmen Adventure: The Days finding those “Wind Lion God”)-Mandarin & English(180825)

此為紀錄為期三週在 金門-北山古洋樓-背包客棧青年旅館 打工換宿日誌,以一個旅人的眼帶大家看金門,以及因擔任客棧小幫手結緣的北山古洋樓。

It is a journal to record my 3 weeks work exchange life in Beishan Back Packer Inn, Kinmen. I will share my adventure and daily life in Kinmen and helper experience in Beishan.

Every location I mentioned will have google map link(If no,you can find by yourself haha).


「為什麼來到金門?」(Why Kinmen?)

這是每一個遇到我、知道我要來金門都會問的問題。金門是一個很特別的地方,由於經歷過戰爭最前線的經驗,加上本身豐富的文化,讓我特別有興趣,尤其是很多適合探險跟訪尋秘境的機會,加上因為一首MV(【Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover),被其中種種金門的故事吸引,二話不說聯絡北山古洋樓的蔡大哥,定下了為期3週的小幫手換宿。

This is the question asked by people when they know I will go to Kinmen. Kinmen is a special place due to the warfront experience and vivid culture, especially many opportunities for adventure. Moreover, I was obsessed by an MV(【Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover) and the Kinmen stories mentioned in the MV. Thus, I called Beishan Inn’s owner Mr, Tsai and checked the plan as a helper in Beishan for 3 weeks.

Why come to Kinmen?

此篇日誌會分為七個部分(This Journal will be divided into 7 parts) :

ㄧ、北山古洋樓與它的小幫手(Beishan and Beishans)

二、戰爭的痕跡(Trace of war)

三、金門秘境探險(Adventure in Secret Area of Kinmen)

四、尋找風獅爺(Search for Wind Lion God)

五、夜遊後浦-七月流火(Houpu in the night-Ghost month)

六、尾聲(Last but not Least)

七、參考網站與資料(Reference)


ㄧ、北山古洋樓與它的小幫手(Beishan and Beishans)

旅程的一開始,用三個字描述北山古洋樓:古蹟、戰爭、溫馨。

At the beginning of the journey, we can use three words to describe Beishan: Historic site, war, warmth.

北山古洋樓外觀一景Beishan backpacker Inn

「北洋樓是一棟戰爭洗禮過的古蹟,有故事的房子。」(Beishan is a historic site experienced war.)

北山古洋樓的路標 Beishan Inn mark

沒錯,經營背包客棧的建築本身就是古蹟,在一棟古蹟住宿和當小幫手絕對是我人生中很特別的體驗,尤其北山還是當地人口中的「鬼屋」。

北山古洋樓曾遭到戰爭的洗禮。民國38年的古寧頭戰役期間,這棟中西合璧的洋樓因位於路口交通樞紐,曾為共軍的指揮所,因此國軍與共軍在此展開你來我往的火拼大戰,洋樓上斑斑彈孔與傷痕累累的斷臂牆垣見證了這一段怵目驚心的戰爭歷史。民國75年,趙萬富將軍接任金門防衛司令官,他將北山古厝群的殘樓整建,保存了戰火下的名勝古蹟,並樹立「北山村巷戰紀念誌」碑記述這段戰役歷史,供後人憑弔。(資料來源:Click)

當然關於這棟房子當初的建造,怎麼從本來是北山最豪華的建築,成為戰爭的犧牲品,進而一度荒廢,是眾說紛紜的,甚至傳說,當初從屋內清出的共軍屍體,將近有兩層樓多那麼高,可見當時的慘狀。由於戰死的英魂不散,北山也似乎不怎麼平靜,最可惜的是因房屋權狀的問題,導致那麼美麗又殘酷的所在,無法進行整修。

到了現任客棧老闆蔡大哥標到十年都不成標的案子,北山古洋樓才成為現在的模樣,慢慢開始有人氣,戰爭過後,回到的一般老百姓的日常。

Yes. Beishan is a historic site as well as a backpacker inn . It is definitely a special experience as a helper living in historic site while Beishan was called “ghost house” by the locals.

In 1949, Beishan was destroyed during Guningtou Battle(Wiki) because of its key strategic location and used to be Communist army command base. Thus, Beishan’s walls have several bullet holes during the war. In 1986, a general rebuilt Beishan and reserve the war history by setting a monument.

Back to the origin of Beishan, from using to be a luxuries architecture in Kinmen to the victim of war and

Of course, there are a lot of different opinions that the origin of this house comes from the most luxurious building in Beishan, which became a victim of war. It was once abandoned afterward. Even the legend says the corpse of the Communist army soldiers that were removed from the house had nearly two floors and some ghost stories came out at that time. The most unfortunate thing is that because of the housing rights issue which makes Beishan building cannot be refurbished.

Nowadays, the Beishan Inn keeper Mr.Tsai was marked the Beishan case that was not marked for ten years and Beishan began to be popular by operating as an inn. After the war, Beishan returned to the peaceful daily life.

「北山是一個很溫馨的大家庭,每個人可以用自己舒服的生活方式,在這裡生活。」(Beishan is a warm family, everyone can live in your way here.)

在北山古洋樓當小幫手有幾個方式:房務換宿、專業換宿或是提案換宿。因為本身有在做影片記錄生活的習慣,所以選擇做影片的方式專業換宿。

背包客棧經營者蔡大哥很善心的收容很多小幫手,每一次都超收,同期最高在我待在客棧期間高達14個小幫手!每一次我們都笑說小幫手比客人還多。我覺得北山古洋樓背包客棧給我的感覺是「包容」,儘管才剛剛來,這裡的小幫手跟人很大方的分享經驗,才來的第一天,就被拉去冒險挖掘廢棄的基地,爬上去看著飛機降落與起飛,周邊的人還認識不到24小時,但是我們已經經歷了一場冒險。

到了背包客棧,本來擔心不會廚藝的我,要怎麼解決人生大事,但其他的小幫手已經聯合煮飯,拿著碗筷,吃著來金門的第一餐,滿滿的熟悉感,我開始可以理解為什麼我可以這麼快跟其他小幫手一樣,稱北山為「家」。

在這裡的生活,是每天下午就騎車出去跟其他人去冒險、去體會金門的文化與一山一草。在短短幾天,從一開始陌生有點害怕,到可以一個晚上騎車20到30分鐘回北山也覺得自然,從一開始對於金門本來沒有什麼特別期待,到期待每一次的秘境與廢墟冒險。

我現在很感謝一時衝動而申請北山打工換宿的我,因為沒有這一次經驗,我不會知道金門多美好。

There are three ways to be a helper in the Beishan: room service, professional accommodation or proposal accommodation. Because I have the habit of making a video to record my life, I chose to do the professional filming.

The Beishan Inn keeper Mr.Tsai is very kind to accommodate many helpers, in the same period I stayed in the inn has up to 14 helpers! Every time we joked that helpers are always more than guests. In short, Beishan gives me the feeling of “tolerance”. Although it was my first time here, other Beishan helpers shared their experiences with me, and they took me to explore the excavation of abandoned bases. On my first day, we climbed up and watched the plane landed and took off. The people around me and I still didn’t meet each other over 24 hours, but we have already experienced an adventure.

When I arrived at the backpacker’s inn, I was worried that my dinner while I can’t cook. However, other helpers have already cooked, I hold the dishes and ate the first meal in Kinmen with full of familiarity. At the moment, I can understand why I accept and call Beishan “home” so quickly like other helpers.

The daily life here is going out to explore Kinmen every afternoon with others and experience the culture and nature of Kinmen. In just a few days, I was afraid of everything and now I can ride my scooter back to Beishan alone for 20 to 30 minutes at night. Also, I didn’t have any special expectations for Kinmen but I turned to look forward to taking every adventure and exploring ruins.

I am very grateful for applying the work exchange in Beishan because of my impulsiveness. Without this experience, I will not know how beautiful Kinmen is.

與小幫手早上六點去建功嶼之後,一起在榕樹下吃建麗小籠包 :)(After going to Jiangongyu island from 6 a.m., Baishan helpers and I ate xiaolongbao in the park hehe)

二、戰爭的痕跡(Trace of war)

眾所皆知,金門是曾經八二三戰爭的前線,承受很多的砲彈攻擊,因此民國50年左右,設施紛紛地下化,例如民國52年國軍開始挖鑿小艇坑道(翟山、九坑)以利運補、民國51年挖鑿擎天廳、民國67年挖鑿花崗石醫院及迎賓館(坑道旅館)。因此可見的是,金門特別多廢棄或是觀光的軍事基地與砲台,也有很多的戰爭相關博物館,更多的是刺激的地下坑道或是不知名的軍事建築物可以去探險。

當然,由於只有待三個禮拜,不能一一每一個景點都分享,只能就我去過的地點分享。

As everyone knows, Kinmen is the front line of the August 23rd Artillery Battle. It has been subjected to many shell attacks. Therefore, facilities have been underground in 1960s. For example, National Army began to dig a small boat tunnel(Zhaishan,Jiugong) in 1963, Qingtianting Hall in 1962, and the granite hospital and the guesthouse (the tunnel hotel) were excavated in 1978. Therefore, there are a lots of abandoned or sightseeing military bases and forts, war-related museums, and exciting underground tunnels or unknown military buildings can be explored.
Of course, since staying for three weeks, I only share the places I have been to.

八二三戰史館的戰車(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum’s tank)

(一) 八二三戰史館(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum) & 俞大維紀念館(Mr.Yu Da-wei Memorial Hall)

八二三戰史館、俞大維紀念館與榕園就在同一區,因此來可以一次去三個景點,我主要去的是前兩者,會特別著重八二三戰史館。
August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum, Mr.Yu Da-wei Memorial Hall, and Banyan Park are in the same district, so you can go to these three spots at a time. I mainly go to the first two, and I will especially focus on the August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum.

  1. 八二三戰史館(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum)
(左Left)八二三戰史館門口(August 23rd Artillery Battle Museum);(其他)August 23rd Artillery Battle history and introduction

裡面主要在描述當年金門八二三砲戰時候的歷史,同時展出砲彈的規模跟金門當時如何運送物資與進行軍事行動。金門當時為兩軍的兵家必爭之地,在八二三砲戰時期,連當時的國防部長俞大維也常常來到金門坐鎮,金門也因此一躍到國際歷史的舞台。金門離中國廈門非常近,幾乎是一望就可以望到對岸,因此打仗的情勢在當時是非常緊張的。

在參觀中,我覺得最特別的是提到很多如何運補物資的描述,因為運補議題是砲戰勝負的關鍵,另外有趣的是政治廣告,也是運用從空中投放的方式,把各種傳單發送到對方的領地上。

It is mainly about the history of August 23rd Artillery Battle of the year. At the same time, it exhibited the scale of the artillery shells and how Kinmen transported materials and did military operations. At that time, Kinmen was a battleground for the military of two armies. During August 23rd Artillery Battle, even the Minister of Defense Mr.Yu Da-wei often came to Kinmen, and Kinmen jumped to the stage of history. Kinmen is very close to Xiamen, China, and you can almost see the other side, so the situation was very tense at the time.
In the museum, the most special part is to mention a lot of descriptions of how to transfer the materials, because the replacement issue is the key to the outcome of the war. Another interesting thing is the political advertisement, which was also used to send various flyers to the other party’s territory.

當時砲彈很多,金門人拿來做菜刀,變成金門特產之一(The other party shot a lot of shells and the locals made kitchen knife by shells which turn to souvenir afterward.)
拍攝戰史館裡面的特調海報(special beverage post)

另外,很有趣的是這邊小賣部有賣蔣介石特調跟毛澤東奶茶,在德月樓也有賣,這是後來比較新興的飲料,並不是傳統飲品。蔣介石特調是特調奶茶加上金門海石花,毛澤東奶茶則是特調奶茶加上58度高粱酒,都是很特別的體驗,可以嘗試看看。

In addition, it is very interesting that the museum sells “Chiang Kai-shek special” and “Mao Zedong milk tea”, which is also sold in De Yue Building. This is a relatively new beverage, not a traditional drink in Kinmen. “Chiang Kai-shek special” is a special tea with Kinmen coral and “Mao Zedong milk tea” is a special milk tea plus 58-degree sorghum liquor.

2. 俞大維紀念館(Mr.Yu Da-wei Memorial Hall)

俞大維前面提過是當時戰爭的國防部部長,此紀念館為紀念這個人的生平和價值觀,唯一比較記憶深刻的是他獲頒的其中一個匾額「不忮不求」,也就是「不嫉妒、不貪得」,不嫉妒他人,不貪求非分名利,後多用來形容淡泊名利,不做非分事情的處世態度。我期許自己可以成為更有自信的人,不因自卑而對自己失望,不因追求不到而否定自己,成為心裏更成熟與強大的人。

Mr.Yu Da-wei, the Minister of Defense of the August 23rd Artillery Battle at that time. This memorial is to commemorate the life and values of this person. The only thing that is memorable is that he was awarded one of the plaques, “Be neither jealous nor greedy.” I also hope that I can become a more confident person, neither be disappointed with myself because of inferiority nor deny myself because of the pursuit and become a mature and powerful person.

不忮不求匾額(Plaques,“Be neither jealous nor greedy.” )

(二)建功嶼(Jiangongyu Island)

建功嶼要等退潮,才有圖片中的石頭路到達對面的島嶼(If you want to arrive Jiangongyu, you should wait for the ebb)

建功嶼可以說是金門版本的摩西分紅海,因為要到達建功嶼需要等退潮,中間的道路浮現之後,才能通行,因此我們一早六點半就出門騎車到這裏。到達建功嶼,裡面有觀光的軍事基地,旁邊有身長幾尺的延平郡王鄭成功石像,眺望對岸的中國,似乎望著回不去的祖國。

Jiangongyu can be said that the Kinmen version of Moses and the Red Sea. It is necessary to wait for the ebb, the road will emerge and people can walk. Therefore, we go out and ride there at 6:30 in the morning. Arriving at Jiangongyu, there is a military base for sightseeing as well as a statue of Koxinga, which is a few feet long. The statue faces China and seems to look at the motherland that cannot go back.

(左Left)延平郡王石像(Statue) ; (右Right)基地門口(the military base)
活化石鱟,約莫銅幣大小(living fossils, about a coin size)

另外,因為位在潮汐帶,生態非常豐富,石頭路旁邊很多鑽來鑽去的寄居蟹。我們一起在旁邊的泥巴裡面找活化石鱟,運氣不錯,找到一兩隻小鱟,約莫5、6歲,非常可愛。

Besides, Jiangongyu is located in the tidal zone, and the ecology is very rich, There were many hermit crabs drilling by the stone road. Other Inn helpers and I found the living fossils in the mud next to the road. Luckily, I found a few small living fossils, about 5 or 6 years old.

(三) 陽翟老街(Yangzhai Old Street) & 金東電影院(Jindong Cinema)

陽翟一帶的繁華從金東電影院開始,1950年台北市議會議長張祥傳先生,為了慰勞金門前線軍官的辛勞,捐款興建了今日的金東戲院,當年電影院場場座無虛席的盛況,讓一旁的陽翟街區順勢發展成繁榮的商店街,但隨軍人減少而沒落。(資料來源:金門觀光網站)

The bustling area of Yangzhai began in Jindong Cinema. In 1950, Mr. Zhang Xiangchuan, the president of Taipei City Council, donated money to build the Jindong Cinema today which was popular at that time and made Yangzhai develop into a prosperous shopping street. However, it fell with the decline of military personnel. (Source: Kinmen Tourism Website)

金東電影院,聽說可以爬旁邊的牆進去,但是功力還不夠哈哈哈(Jindong Cinema)

如果喜歡復古風格的人,絕對會深深愛上這裏,尤其都還有保留當時的各項設施加上每一戶都有一片大國旗展現愛國氛圍,這邊有浴室、眼鏡行、照相館、理髮廳、電影院、冰店、茶室等等,都是為了因應軍隊的日常需求。

If you like the old style, you will definitely fall in love with it. In particular, here retain the facilities at that time. Each house has a large national flag to show patriotic atmosphere. There are bathrooms, eyeglasses store, photo studios, Barbershops, cinemas, ice shops, tea rooms, etc. All are designed to meet the daily needs of the military.

陽翟老街一景,非常復古風(Yangzhai old street)

這邊保留最完整而且可以進去觀光的是一間小茶室,因為大部分要不是被鎖起來,就是已經是廢墟狀態。這邊可以看到很完整當時的使用情況,包含還有櫃檯登記簿跟宣導性病防治,往裡面有還有當時的房間。有一部電影「軍中樂園」就是以茶室跟軍人為主角,在戰爭之時的故事,拍攝地點就在陽翟。

The one that remains the most complete and can be visited is a small tea room because most of the building is locked or in ruins. Here you can see the complete use of evidence, including the counter for registration, the promotion of sexually transmitted diseases, and rooms at the time. There is a Taiwanese movie “Paradise in Service”(Click: Trailer) which is talked about the story of the tea room and the military and they cast in Yangzhai.

特約茶室一景(Tea room)

(四) 特約茶室展示館(Military Brothel Exhibition Hall)

同前面提到的特約茶室,其實就是提供軍人性事處理的地方,寫實地描述如何購買票卷跟對應物價,以及金門每一個茶室分佈與經營狀況,最後是進行服務的小房間。

Military Brothel Exhibition Hall mentioned above is actually a place for military dealt with sex desire(also called “tea room”), to describe how to purchase the ticket and the corresponding price at that time, as well as the distribution and operation of each tea room in Kinmen, and finally the small room for service.

特約茶室展示館(Military Brothel Exhibition Hall)

看完所有茶室相關建築與展覽,很少提到的是這些女人的故事,戰爭中最受害的往往是婦女與孩子,尤其是日本統治的時候,有所謂的強制性奴隸(慰安婦)。看到很多提到為了國家之類的話,但是我想說的是,如果可以選擇,沒有人想成為茶室的小姐,我認為是不存在心甘情願的。

戰爭不是只有男人的悲哀,女人同是。

After visiting all the tea room related buildings and exhibitions, it is rare to mention the stories of these women. The most victims of the war are usually women and children. Especially during Japan ruled, there were so-called mandatory slaves (comfort women). The record said these women were for the country, but I think if you can choose, no one wants to be a “tea room lady” with no willingness.
War is not only about the sorrow of men, as well as women.

(五)北山播音牆(Beishan Broadcasting Wall)

北山播音牆(Beishan Broadcasting Wall)

當你來到一片草原,看到矗立在海提邊的巨大長方體建築物,上面一個個類似音響的洞,這裏是北山播音牆,用來向當時的對岸作為心理戰廣播的用途,可以最長傳播25公里,由48組揚聲器組成的方陣。

「親愛的大陸同胞你們好,我是鄧麗君……」每天鄧麗君清脆的嗓音從巨大的播音器裡傳出,紀錄戰爭時期,用國語、閩南語廣播新聞、宣傳、批判、招降等訊息的過程。

When you come to a grassland, you will see a huge rectangular building standing on the edge of the sea. There is a sound-like hole above it. It is Beishan broadcasting wall, which was used for the psychological warfare broadcasting to the Communist and pass to 25 kilometers away with square array of 48 sets of speakers.
“Dear mainland compatriots, I am Teresa Teng…” Every day, Terasa Teng‘s(Taiwanese famous singer) crisp voice come from a huge radio, recording the process of broadcasting of news, propaganda, criticism, and surrender in Mandarin and Taiwanese.

在北山播音牆裡面一景(Inside Beishan Broadcasting Wall)

播音牆的內部平常都是不外開放,當天剛好有活動才有開放,控制台同圖片所展現,沒有太過複雜的操控平台,可以連結任何我們想要播放的音樂或聲音。播音牆的對面就可以看到廈門,所以可以想像當時的戰爭,如何運用廣播作為心理戰。

The interior of the broadcasting wall is usually closed. The console is displayed with the picture I post. There is no too complicated control platform to link any music or sound we want to play. You can see Xiamen on the opposite side of the broadcasting wall, so you can imagine how to use broadcasting as a psychological warfare at the time.

(六)獅山砲陣地(Shishan(Mt.Lion)Howitzer Front)

獅山砲陣地(Shishan(Mt.Lion)Howitzer Front)

獅山砲陣地位於金門的東北角,鄰近山后民俗文化村,是台灣唯一坑道式的榴砲陣地,又名震東坑道,取「威震金東」的意思。來到這裡,有坑道可以進去參觀各種砲彈、戰車跟紀錄片。

Shishan Howitzer Front is located in the northeast corner of Kinmen, adjacent to the Shanhou Folk Culture Village. It is the only tunnel-style cannon base in Taiwan. It is also known as the Zhendong Tunnel which means “ Inspire Zhendong”. Come here, there are tunnels to go in and visit various shells, chariots, and documentaries.

震東坑道(inside the tunnel)

另外,大家來到這裡還有是想要觀賞砲彈演練(砲操),可以看到以前射擊的過程、阿兵哥演練跟裝填彈藥。

In addition, everyone came here to see the cannonball drill , you can see the process of the shooting, military practice and loading ammunition.

砲操過程(cannonball drill)

(七) 太武山(Taiwu Mountain)

(From left to right)太武山風景區(Taiwu Mountain)、玉章路登山步道(通往毋忘在莒石1.6km)(Yuzhang Road Hiking Trail which leads to Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock)、上山沿路景色(scene during hiking)

太武山在金門本島的東部,高262公尺,是金門的最高峰,也是小百岳之一。1950年代後,整個太武山區多被劃為軍事禁區,山上除構築防禦工事,也有四通八達的坑道。

Taiwu Mountain is 262 meters high in the eastern part of Kinmen . It is the highest peak of Kinmen and one of Xiaobaiyue. After the 1950s, the entire Taiwu Mountain area was classified as a military restricted area. In addition to constructing fortifications, the mountain also has tunnels extending in all directions.

毋忘在莒一石(Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock)

另還有被視為金門地標的「毋忘在莒」刻石,隨著解嚴開放,這些都成為遊客去金門必遊覽的地方。毋忘在莒的典故為戰國時齊國被燕國連攻七十二城,僅剩即墨、莒二城為最後固守的城池。 齊國以莒城為反攻基地,在五年的艱苦歲月後逆襲成功,收復了失地。 見史記卷八十二田單傳。 後以毋忘在莒比喻收復國土。(資料來源:維基百科)

Now, Taiwu mountain has been open to visitors and Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock also the hot spot to take the picture. Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju in Chinese means to recover the “homeland”.

(八)翟山坑道(Zhaishan Tunnel)

翟山坑道內部(Internal of Zhaishan Tunnel)

第一眼看到翟山坑道,便被眼前的壯麗坑洞所震撼,加上旁邊的燈光與水交映,這裏是大金門最具代表性的坑道,又被譽為「地下金門」傑作之一。

位於金門西南方,為一A字型戰備水道,總長約357公尺,民國五十二年為因應戰爭所需而開挖,耗時三年才完成,戰時供登陸小艇搶灘運補用,坑內並有停靠碼頭。在金門國家公園管理處重新整建、清理後,翟山坑道於八十七年正式開放,是不可錯過的觀光景點。

另外,每年秋季會在翟山坑道裡面辦音樂會,由於自然地形行成天然的回音,使得整個表演更令人震撼,大家有空可以不妨來翟山。

When I first saw the Zhaishan Tunnel, I was shocked by the magnificent scene in front of me with the lights and water shining. It is the most representative tunnel of Kinmen. It is also known as the masterpiece of the “underground Kinmen”.
Located in the southwest of Kinmen, it is an A-shaped war prepared waterway with a total length of about 357 meters. It was excavated in 1963 in response to the war. It took three years to complete, and it was used for landing in the war. After the renovation and clean-up by Kinmen National Park Management Office, the Zhaishan Tunnel was officially opened in 1998 and is a must-see attraction.
In addition, in every autumn, concert will be held in Zhaishan Tunnel. Because the terrain is a natural echo, the whole performance is even more shocking. You can come to Zhaishan and listen to the music.

(九)得月樓(Deyue Tower) & 僑鄉文化展示館(Overseas Chinese Culture Exhibition Hall) & 金水國小(Jinshui Elementary School)

得月樓是一個防禦性的建築,主人去南洋打拼之後光宗耀祖所建造,所以這棟建築很多巧思,推薦這邊的導覽,非常的詳盡。

最顯著的是一開始看到的三層樓高的塔(得月樓),此為窺探敵人跟射擊之處,地下還有一層是地道,可以直達主人家 。有趣的是,塔旁邊的建築為「假建築」,所以會發現空間特別窄小,為迷惑敵人。

Deyue Tower is a defensive building which the owner went to Nanyang to develop business and this building has a lot of ingenuity. I recommend you can listen to the guide in Deyue Tower which is very detailed.
The most notable is the three-story tower (Deyue Tower) that was first seen. This is the place to spy on the enemy and the shooting. The ground floor is also a tunnel that can go directly to the host. Interestingly, the building next to the tower is a “fake building”(no one live in here), so you will find that space is particularly narrow, to confuse the enemy.

得月樓外觀(Deyue Tower)

旁邊主人住的地方為「黃輝煌洋樓」,洋樓大都是出去打拼的金門人衣錦還鄉後所建造,這邊可以看到以前建築的特色。例如閣樓的設計作為充分利用空間,或是窺探樓下敵人的時候,可以把樓上的地板掀起窺探跟逃生。

The place next to Deyue Tower is “Huanghuangyang Western Style House”. Most of the buildings were built after the Kinmen people who went out to develop business. You can see the characteristics of the previous buildings. For example, when the loft is designed to make full use of space, or to spy on the enemy downstairs, you can pry the floor up and escape.

黃輝煌洋樓(Huanghuangyang Western Style House)

旁邊就是僑鄉文化展示館跟金水國小,金水國小以前是學校,後來因為學生減少,變成博物館,同僑鄉文化展示館,都是在訴說下南洋的人的故事與生活。

Next to it is the Overseas Chinese Culture Exhibition Hall and Jinshui Elementary School. Jinshui Elementary School used to be a school. Later, because the students were reduced, they became museums. Same as Overseas Chinese Culture Exhibition Hall, Jinshui Elementary School is telling the story and life of people in Nanyang.

金水國小展覽洋客生活(Jinshui Elementary School)

(十) 莒光樓(Juguang Tower)

我第一次來到莒光樓的時候,好似看到古代的城池。

裡面展演除了金門的特色與文俗活動,還有紀錄當時古寧頭與八二三砲彈戰爭,與對面的「毋忘在莒」一石遙遙相望,如果對於想一次了解金門當地文化跟戰爭紀錄的人,可以來這裡作為起始點。

When I first came to the Shuguang Building, it was like seeing the ancient city.
In addition to the characteristics and cultural activities of the Kinmen, there are also records of the Guningtou Battle andAugust 23rd Artillery Battle at the time, and the opposite side of the “Wu-Wang-Zai-Ju Inscribed Rock” . If you want to learn about the local culture and war record of Kinmen. People can come here as a starting point to know Kinmen.

莒光樓一景(Juguang Tower)
莒光樓內部(Juguang Tower)

(十一) 古寧頭戰史館(Guningtou Battle Museum)

古寧頭戰史館除了主要用畫作介紹當時戰爭的慘烈,也有劇情加上紀錄片去描述當初的古寧頭戰役,是很好的銜接國軍退台後,固守金門的關鍵戰役,有句話說:「金門在,台灣在; 金門失守,中華民國難存。」

In addition to the paintings used to introduce the tragic wars at the time, the Guningtou Battle Museum also included a plot and a documentary to describe the Guningtou Battle. It was a key battle for the national army and the Kinmen. Some words said, “Kinmen is in, Taiwan is in; Kinmen is falling, and the Republic of China is hard to survive.”

古寧頭戰史館(Guningtou Battle Museum)

另外,比較特別的是,有保存當時的坑道,可以走進去體驗,可以直接通到外面的營區,裡面都有一些當時作戰的紀錄。

It is more special to save the tunnel at that time, and you can walk into the tunnel and directly go to the outside base. There are some records of the battle at that time.

坑道內的景色(Scene inside the tunnel)

(十二)湖井頭戰史館(Hujingtou Battle Museum)

此戰史館在小金門(烈嶼),此博物館最特別的在於可以從這裏的望遠鏡看向對岸的廈門非、常、清、處,幾乎可以看到對面廈門的車子行駛,但我去的時候,霧有點大,所以看不到全部。

Hujingtou Battle Museum is located in Xiao Kinmen (Lieyu Township). The most special part about this museum is that it can be seen from the telescope here to the opposite side of the city very clear. You can almost see the car on the opposite side of Xiamen, but I can’t see it all due to the thick frog.

從瞭望台看出去的景色,當天有點霧霧的(scene from the telescope with thick frog)

這裡還紀錄了當時打電報的聲音記錄,有一排的電話亭,只要你拿起話筒,自然有說話的聲音傳來,近距離的體驗當時的氛圍。不過聽著不知道為什麼忽然有點想念我爸,可能是因為語氣都是如同當時的士兵一樣,仔細交代在異地的家人好好照顧自己。

It also recorded the sound record of the telegraph at that time. There was a row of telephone booths in museum. As long as you picked up the microphone, there was a voice coming from the phone, and you can experience the atmosphere at that time. But I don’t know why I suddenly missed my dad. It may be because the tone is like the soldiers at that time, carefully had their family take care of themselves.

湖井頭戰史館(Hujingtou Battle Museum)

(十三) 紅土溝(L36 Fortress)

我們爬上去拍照(We climbed up the building haha)

這個地方是我們偶然經過,以為被鎖住,結果鐵門輕輕一推,就推進去了。

這裏是某一個基地,小小的,有很多雕塑模擬當時的戰爭情形,還原練兵跟射靶的情況。當然,也離廈門很近。

This place was accidentally found, thinking that it was locked. As a result, the iron door pushed forward easily haha.
This base is small. There are many sculptures to simulate the war situation at that time and restore the situation of training and shooting. Of course, it is also very close to Xiamen.

紅土溝(L36 Fortress)

(十四) 馬山觀測所(Mashan Observation Post)

馬山位於最東北角,是最接近廈門的地方。整體坑道狹小,但是小而精緻。金沙鎮的馬山,距大陸的角嶼僅2,100公尺,退潮時更只有,1800公尺,是金門本島最靠近大陸的據點,過去一直是觀測對岸海上活動及空飄文宣的軍事要塞,有「天下第一哨」之稱,今日已褪去軍事色彩,成為金門熱門觀光景點。

馬山觀測所在民國57年開挖,利用原有交通壕往下挖深,上鋪水泥形成一個人工坑道,相當隱密,裝設有3座高倍率大型望遠鏡,監控對岸海空動靜;進入觀測所大門後,需通過一段全長174公尺的戰備坑道,坑道內設有槍堡等軍事設施,天候佳時福建的獅頭山、石鼓山都清晰可見。

(十五) 成功海防坑道(ChengGong Coastal Defense Tunnel)

這個坑道的規模在金門算是蠻大的,不是指體積,而是長度。儘管外面炎炎氣候,但是靠近坑道門口就一陣涼氣,同天然的冷氣。如果你是一個人去,會蠻刺激的,走的過程中有的時候昏暗,有的時候潮濕易滑,算是一個安全得坑道。

The size of this tunnel is quite large in Kinmen, not the volume, but the length. Despite the hot weather outside, it was cool near the tunnel entrance. If you go alone, it will be very exciting. Sometimes the tunnel is dim when walking, sometimes it is wet and slippery. All in all, it is a safe tunnel with the light on both sides.

坑道內部(Inside the tunnel)

裡面還有示意圖與假軍人操練的樣子,一開始沒有注意還真的有點被嚇到。

There are also schematics and fake soldiers practicing, and I was really shocked by them at first.

假軍人(Fake soldiers)

(十六)擎天廳 明德公園 (Qingtianting Hall & Mingde Park)

這兩個景點比較特別,需要事先一個禮拜預約,並且都要對照身分證,因為是軍事重地。

首先是擎天廳,以前用來作為發號司令的地方,現在則是做教育的地方,在一個巨大的花岡石坑道內,非常雄偉。

These two attractions are special, they need to be booked one week in advance, and checked identity card because it is a important military base.
Qingtianting Hall, which used to be the commander. Now it is the place to do education. It is very majestic in a huge Huagang Stone Tunnel.

擎天廳 (Qingtianting Hall)

明德公園比較特別的地方在於,八二三砲彈的第一發就在這裡,而且一次三位軍官因此殉職,俞大維部長與胡璉將軍因為晚到因此逃過一劫,但俞大維部長的腦袋也卡了一塊砲彈碎片,直到去世才取出。

The special part of Mingde Park is that the first shot of August 23rd Artillery Battle was here, and three officers were killed. Yu Dawei and General Hu Wei escaped because of their late arrival, but the Minister of Defense Yu Dawei’s head also stuck a piece of artillery shell which was taken out until his death.

胡璉將軍以前住處(General Hu Wei’s house)

三、金門秘境探險(Adventure in Secret Area of Kinmen)

此篇收藏非正式景點,為不小心發現或為各種可以拍美照的地點。

This collection are informal attractions, for accidental discovery or for a variety of places where you can take beautiful photos.

(一) 新湖漁港 與它的消波塊(Xinhu port and its wave breaker block)

這裏是最近很受歡迎的IG打卡景點,同時也是目前我自己覺得在金門這麼多網美景點中,最用生命在當網美的地方。

因為要從外面爬進去,剛好有一個搖搖欲墜的生鏽鐵梯(現在好像掉下去了),我們要跨越這個鐵梯,中間還有海巡署大哥幫助我們爬過來(?),從這刻我覺得當網美不容易,爬過去之後,還要利用摩擦力手腳並用前進,過程中被無數的海蟑螂干擾。

This is the most popular IG check-in place recently. At the same time, it let me know it is hard to be a KOL.
First, we have to climb in from the outside, there is just a crumbling rusty iron ladder (it fell down after we left) and we have to cross this iron ladder. Meanwhile, a sea patrol helped us climb over this haha. After climbing over, we have to use the friction to move forward with our hands and feet, and the process is disturbed by countless sea otters.

爬消波塊的過程(Climbing…)

果然,拍出來的效果還是很好的,不枉我們爬進來消坡塊。

Last,it didn’t let me down and worth climbing inside the wave breaker block.

Photo credit by: Lala Chiu

(二) 不知名坑道 & 廢棄砲台(Unknown tunnel & abandoned cannon)

其實我也不知道這裡在地圖的哪裡,是偶然經過看到,只能說金門很多地方都尚未整理完畢,因此有些看起來是廢棄的模樣。

In fact, I don’t know where it is and accidentally passed by these places. It can only be said that many places in Kinmen have not been organized yet, so some places seem to be abandoned.

不知名地標 (Unknown places)

(三) 寒舍花(Hanshehua)

寒舍花是一塊在海邊,長得像花托的巨石,可惜那時候漲潮,沒有辦法看到完整的花托,只能用想像力去描繪。走在海邊的過程中,可以看到彈孔的痕跡,聽說是對岸打過來的,第一次這麼貼近歷史。

Hanshehua is a huge stone that looks like a torus at the seaside. Unfortunately, there was no way to see the complete receptacle, and it could only be depicted with imagination. Walking by the sea, you can see the traces of the bullet holes. I heard that it was hit across the bank and my first time so close to history.

海邊場景(sea scene),中間的圖片為彈孔(middle picture is bullet hole)

比較有趣得是,去到那裡的過程是需要經過坑道,蠻新奇的體驗。

The process of going there(beach) is a very novel experience that needs to go through the tunnel.

走坑道(walk in the tunnel)

(四) 看飛機的秘密基地(Secret base for seeing the airplane)

第一天來到金門的時候,就被其他小幫手帶去一個需要撥開很多草叢的地方,然後就看到一個廢棄的砲彈台,裡面有很多當時的標語。

最刺激的部分為,我們要爬上一個看起來不怎麽牢固的木梯,爬的過程都在晃動,當我們爬到頂部,就看到飛機起飛與降落離我們很近,這果然是要熟人帶啊!

When I came to Kinmen on the first day, I was taken by other Beishan helper to a place where I needed to cross over a lot of grass, and then I saw an abandoned artillery base with many slogans at the time.
The most exciting part is that we have to climb a wooden ladder that doesn’t look very firm. The process of climbing is shaking. When we climbed to the top, we saw that the planes were taking off and landing very close to us. It really needs an acquaintance to take you here!

我來金門的第一個冒險(My first adventure in Kinmen)

(五)彩色建築(Colorful building)

這是沿路看到的建築,聽也是作為水庫管理相關的,因為上面得牆壁粉刷為彩色,所以也變成新興的打卡景點。

This is the building that is seen along the road. It is also related to the management of the reservoir. Because the walls are painted in colors, it has also become an emerging hitting spot.

(六)廢棄金沙戲院(Jinsha Cinema)

這裏是位於金沙鎮廢棄的建築物,正門都鎖住了,所以我們只好從旁邊的樓梯入侵,裡面有些昏暗,到處是破碎的塑膠跟垃圾。聽說這裡以前還是很多青少年聚集打架的地方,所以連門都被踢破了。

This is an abandoned building in Jinsha Township. The main entrance is locked, so we have to invade from the stairs next to it. It is dark inside with broken plastic and rubbish everywhere. I heard that there used to be a place where many teenagers gathered to fight, so even the door was kicked.

金沙戲院(Jinsha Cinema)

最值得一看的是播映室,除了原始的大台錄影機,還有廢棄的底片散落四處,這是非常珍貴的歷史紀錄呀!

The most worthwhile thing to watch is the screening room. In addition to the original big video recorders, and the abandoned film scattered around. this is a very precious historical record!

金沙戲院內部與播映室(Inside Jinsha Cinema and its screening room)

過程中,還有當地居民走到外面的旁邊看向裡面,我和同伴還要躲避當地居民的視線,是一個不錯的體驗,不過還是要有人帶,因為平時是不能進去的哈哈。

In the process, there are local residents walking outside to look inside, my companion and I have to avoid the sight of the local residents which was a special experience. But still have someone to bring you inside, because you usually can not go in haha.

(七)復國墩玻璃山(Fuguodun glasses)

這裏特別的地方在於有一整片的「玻璃山」,近看會發現是有一塊塊拳頭大小的石頭,上面都是倒插的台灣啤酒的酒瓶,並且都是破碎的,用途是防禦敵人上岸。過程中,也在地上找到許多的彈頭。

The special part here is that there is a “Glass Mountain”. In a closer look, it will be found that there is a piece of fist-sized stone with a bottle of Taiwanese beer that is inverted and broken in order to defense the enemy.Also, many warheads were found on the ground.

玻璃山(Glasses Mountain)

途中我們看到廢棄在草叢的坦克,在金門,有不少坦克像這樣廢棄在路邊。另外,或許是觀光客太多,所以還特定設立假的兵哨台,以供遊客拍照。

On the way we saw the tanks abandoned in the grass. In Kinmen, many tanks were abandoned like this on the roadside. In addition, may be too many tourists come here, so a fake soldier’s post is also set up for tourists to take pictures.

坦克跟相關軍事設施(Tanks and military-related facilities)

(八) 小金門夜景 & 貓公石(Xiao Kinmen (Lieyu Township)Night Scene & Cat stone)

金門有分大小金門,小金門又叫烈嶼鄉。烈嶼鄉特別的地方在於更靠近廈門,而且守護神也主要不是風獅爺,而是風雞,民間習俗,白雞紅雞冠上的血,有辟邪除魔的功能,而雞可以剋制蟻害。

Kinmen has been divided into Kinmen and XiaoKinmen which is also called Lieyu Township. Lieyu Township is closer to Xiamen, and the patron saint is mainly not the wind lion god, but the wind chicken. In XiaoKinmen customs, the blood of the white chicken with red crest can expel evil spirits and demon. Also, chicken can restrain ants.

廈門夜景(Night scene of Xiamen)

主要我們是來到貓公石這裏拍照,貓公石我本來以為是一個長得像貓的巨石,結果是一顆一顆巨大的紅色石頭,外形因海水侵蝕都不相同,石頭的大小如同臺灣野柳一樣,最特殊的是它如蜂窩般的外表,別的地方無法看到。

「貓公」的由來在閩南語中,是形容顏面坑坑洞洞、凹凸不平之醜男子為「貓公」,所以坑坑洞洞的石頭也因此被命名為「貓公石」。

Mainly we came to the cat stone to take pictures here. In the beginning, I thought it was a huge stone like a cat. Later, I realized that cast stone is a huge red stone. The shape is different because of water erosion. The most special part is its honeycomb-like appearance, which cannot be seen anywhere else.
The origin of “Cats” comes from Taiwanese. It is a “cat” that describes the face of a hole and a ugly man. Therefore, the stone in the hole is named “Cat Stone”.

貓公石(Cat Stone)(資料來源 Reference : Click)

(九)歐厝沙灘-沙灘上的戰車(Oucuo Beach and its tank)

如果說要推薦金門的沙灘,歐厝絕對是我心目中的第一名,除了沙子細軟,連綿一片,如果不會游泳也沒關係,這裏為沙岸,所以只要在近處,都不會有砂石刺腳。

If you want to ask the recommended beach of Kinmen, Oucuo is definitely the first place in my mind because the sand there is soft and continuous. If you can’t swim, it doesn’t matter. It is a sandbank with no stone or rock to sting your feet.

歐厝與坦克(Oucuo and tank)

這裡最有名的是卡在沙灘上的坦克,但是它被淹沒得很快,才過不到半年,從本來可以看到車輪,到現在看到上半部,從入口走到坦克也需要七到八分鐘左右。但是也因為這樣,使這個景點特別。

The most famous here is the tank stuck on the beach, but it was submerged quickly. Only after half a year, from the original can see the wheel to the upper half of the tank. It needs seven to eight minutes to arrive tank from the entrance. It is this tank makes Oucuo special.

(十) 新前墩雨傘巷(Umbrella Lane in XinQiandun)

這裏也是IG打卡景點,就是一條約莫500公尺的「雨傘巷」,彩色的雨傘被懸掛在天上,尤其在陰雨綿綿之後剛放晴的背景下,更添詩意。

It is also an IG check-in spot, which is an “Umbrella Lane” with 500 meters. The colored umbrellas are hung in the sky, especially in the background of the shine after the rain which is poetic.

雨傘巷(Umbrella Lane), Photo credit by: Lala Chiu

中間的小插曲是我們找到以前的防空洞,我們沒有進去,一來不知道可否進去,二來很多的蚊蟲,我們沒有帶防蚊液。但是下次還有機會來可以冒險看看。

When we took the picture and we found the previous air-raid shelter. We didn’t go in because We didn’t know if we could go in and there were mosquitoes and we didn’t bring mosquito repellent. I will take a look if I have next chance.

防空洞(air-raid shelter)

(十一) 后豐港公車亭與鱟(Houfenggang bus stop and Horseshoe Crab)

客棧的朋友,同時也是金門駐縣藝術家程小刀,在金門后豐港公車亭有她的創作。第一眼看到的就是大隻的鱟,而且是公母結合,在點點水光/星空之中遨遊,非常美麗,並且整個公車亭都跟金門在地風俗跟特色結合。

最珍貴的是,可以看到藝術家的創作過程,儘管小刀說會很無聊,但是我覺得這像是在看一場藝術表演,藝術不是只有成品,過程也是。

A friend met in Beishan inn, who is also the artist of the Kinmen County, Cheng Xiaodao, has her creation at the FHoufenggang bus stop in Kinmen. The first thing I saw was a big horseshoe crab, and it was a combination of male and female. It was very beautiful in the water/starry sky, and the whole bus stop was combined with Kinmen customs and features.
The most precious thing is that you can see the artist’s creation process. Although Xiaodao said it was very boring, I think it was like watching an art performance. Art is not only a finished product, but the process is also.

鱟(Horseshoe Crab)

小刀是一個豪爽的人,我很喜歡她,常常會聽她談到教育跟社會議題,本身多才多藝而且經歷豐富,是一個非常特別的人,如果有機會來北山,可以跟她認識!

Xiaoda is a bold person and I like her very much. I often heard that she talked about education and social issues. She is versatile and experienced. If you has the opportunity to come to Beishan, you can meet her!

公車亭與創作(Bus stop and creation)

(十二) 中堡藍曬圖(Blue Print)

早期施工的工程圖複製無法使用影印(影印機是比較晚期的科技了), 而重描又很費工,所以發展出用感光定影的複製圖面技術。 這種複製方式一直到現在,除了技術比較進步外,其實核心流程都差不多, 這也顯示了這種複製圖面方式的方便、可靠、廉價及穩定性。(資料來源:Click)

台南有藍曬圖,但來到金門發現這裡也有,就決定前往。可以看到圖片中的藍曬圖,這是一個撞球室,聽說裡面的擺設真的是撞球室,上面還掛著國旗。

The copying of the engineering drawings of the early construction could not use photocopying (the photocopier is a relatively advanced technology), and the re-drawing was very labor-intensive, so the reproduction of the photo-fixing technology was developed. This kind of copying method has been used now. In addition to the relatively advanced technology, the core processes are similar, which also shows the convenience, reliability, low cost and stability of this copying method. (Source: Click)
There is blue prints in Tainan, but when I came to Kinmen and found it here also. You can see the blue print in the picture which shows a pool room and I heard that the display inside the house before was really a pool room with a national flag hung on the wall.

中堡藍曬圖(Blue Print)

(十三) 復國墩日出 & 南山林道夕陽(Fuguodun sunrise & Nanshan Forest Road sunset)

去離島一定要看的就是日出與日落。我們去整個金門的幾乎最東邊-復國墩看日出,幸好那天的天氣很好,沒有太多雲霧遮擋,一顆真的是蛋黃完整形狀的太陽升起,這是我目前看過做完整的日出。

Sunrise and sunset are must be seen the scene when going to the island. We went to almost the easternmost part of the Kinmen — Fuguodun to watch the sunrise and fortunately the weather was very good with not too much cloud. The sun is the full shape of the egg yolk which is the most completed sunrise I have seen so far.

復國墩日出 (Fuguodun sunrise)

我們去南山林道附近的沙灘看日落,剛好對面可以看到廈門,另一邊則是港口通往小金門跟廈門的,可以期待有一天到廈門去旅遊。這邊的夕陽非常美麗,每分每秒都長得不太一樣。

We went to the beach near Nanshan Forest Road to watch the sunset and we saw Xiamen on the opposite side, and on the other side to the port to XiaoKinmen and Xiamen. The sunset here is very beautiful, and every minute has its own scene.

南山林道夕陽(Nanshan Forest Road sunset)

(十四)陳清吉洋樓(ChenQingji Western Style House)

這裏是我來金門第一個去的洋樓,這裡本來是鎖起來的,後來可以進來,門口有一個巨大的雞蛋樹。外觀來看有點小暗,不過還是走進去參觀這棟三層樓高的遺跡。

Here is the first western style house I went to in Kinmen. It was originally locked up. Later we could come in and there was a huge egg tree at the door. The appearance is a bit dark, but we still walked in to visit this three-story ruins.

其實這邊有陸續整修,只是尚未完成,不過因為是木製地板,所以走樓梯的時候有點晃動,走在一般的地板也會特別小心翼翼。觀察這棟建築,機能非常完整,像是閣樓、書房等等都是,細部的花紋也非常精美,評估要價不菲。推薦如果想看比較完整的洋樓,陳清吉會是其中一個很棒的選擇。

In fact, there have been renovations here, but they have not been completed yet.The floors were made of wooden , so they are a little shaken when walking the stairs, and we were particularly careful when walking on the floor. Observing this building, the function is very complete, like the attic, the study, etc., and the details of the building are also very beautiful which seems to be expensive. If you want to see a relatively completed western style house , ChenQingji will be one of the best choices.

陳清吉洋樓內部(inside the ChenQingji Western Style House)

(十五) 塔山電廠金龜尾石頭城堡(Tashan Power Plant and its castle)

首先要先介紹是因為「浯島秘境Quemoy Adventure」這個社團而來到這裡,週末都會開團去平時不會有觀光客來的秘境,前面提到的玻璃山也是。這一次來到塔山發電廠的海灘,同時也是胡璉將軍海葬的地方,並且意外發現小艇坑道。

First of all, we must introduce a FB group called “Quemoy Adventure”. They will plan event on weekends for exploring secret area. The glass mountain mentioned above is also from Quemoy Adventure. This time we came to the beach of Tashan Power Plant, where was also the place where General Hu Wei was buried, and accidentally discovered the tunnel which can be used in walkway and a waterway.

塔山發電廠海邊(Beach near Tashan Power Plant)

走了一段路看到以前廢棄的碉堡,小小探險一番,適合坐在這裡一個下午。沿路發現新的IG打卡景點跟野生風獅爺,是這趟旅程的收穫。

After a long walk, we saw the abandoned bunker and it is suitable for sitting here for an afternoon. More, we discovered new IG check-in spots along the road and wild wind lion god.

廢棄碉堡(abandoned bunker)

(十六) 大帽山跟小艇坑道(Da Mao Mountain and its tunnel)

坑道內部(Inside the tunnel)

這裏很冒險,需要先看潮汐時間,退潮後可以看到一個大坑道,想以想像沒有水的翟山坑道。裡面有岔路,聽說其中一條通往軍營,之前的小幫手還被國軍追趕,在這裡上演大逃殺。

It is very adventurous here. You need to look at the tide time first. You can see a big tunnel after the tide. There is a road inside, I heard that one of them led to the military camp. The former Beishan helper was also chased by the national army, where a big escape was staged haha.

(十七) 花崗石醫院(Abandoned Hospital)

這裡是廢棄的醫院,本來覺得沒有很可怕,但是後來因為越走越深和越暗,就轉頭回原路走回出口,途中有看到手術室跟一些病房,當下含我只有三個人,如果要去探險,建議還是要至少6、7人左右。

This is an abandoned hospital. I didn’t think it was terrible at first, but then I turned back to the exit while going deeper and darker,. I saw the operating room and some wards on the way. There are only three people in the moment. If you want to explore, it is recommended to be at least 6 or 7 people at a time.

醫院門口(Hospital)

(十八) 小長城-峰上巡檢司(Feng shang xun jian si)

峰上巡檢司(Feng shang xun jian si)

巡檢司為以前的派出所,這裡是來防治海盜的地方。這邊特別的地方只在於它的城牆很像長城。

Xun jian si is the former police station where to fight pirates. The special part here is that its walls are like the Great Wall.


四、尋找風獅爺(Search for Wind Lion God)

尋找風獅爺這個活動變成來金門必玩,是因為金門目前統計有103尊(數字都會持續更新),風獅爺有大有小,有的藏身隱密,有的高大威武,而且長得都不一樣,更是帶有不同的故事,並且可以跟隨風獅爺的腳步遊金門。

“Searching for the wind lion god” has become a must-do activity in Kinmen because there are currently 103 wind lion gods in Kinmen (the numbers will continue to be updated). Some wind lion gods are hidden in secret places, some are tall and mighty, and all of them looks totally different with different stories.

「尋找風獅爺」也成為我來金門拍攝影片的主題,建議幾個方式快速認識風獅爺:

“Searching for Wㄥind Lion God” also became my video theme in this trip.I recommend two ways to know wind lion god more quickly.

  1. 搭台灣好行公車(E線-尋找風獅爺):主要帶你看金沙與金湖的風獅爺,大部分的風獅爺也的確在金沙鎮,一天就帶你看63尊風獅爺加上導覽,但是票價一日是400元。

1.Take bus(Taiwan trip)(E Route): You can see 63 wind lion gods in
Jinsha and Jinhu Township (Most of wind lion gods are in Jinsha) with 400 NTD / day.

台灣好行公車路線(bus route)

2. 風獅爺文化坊:在得月樓旁邊,主要是賣風獅爺的紀念品,更特別的是他們有一幅大的風獅爺分佈圖加上風獅爺照片。

2. Wind Lion Gods souvenir store: Mainly sells the souvenir of wind lion god and there is a big map of wind lion god allocation.

風獅爺分佈圖 Wind Lion Gods map

還是先稍微介紹一下風獅爺,這先說到金門的地形,金門四周無山,只有中間有丘陵,冬季東北風特別強烈,更由於歷代兵亂,植披遭受到嚴重破壞,使得金門受風沙之苦,就有幾個村落因風沙埋落而遷村。所以早期設立風獅爺得目的為祈求免於風沙,後來結合閩南道教以風獅收風的習俗,轉為鎮風煞、防禦風災的守護神也兼具防治蟻害、斷路衝溪煞及居家平安的多功能型神祇。

Let me introduce the wind lion god first. There are no mountains around Kinmen but hills in the central. The northeast wind is particularly strong in winter, and the vegetation has been seriously damaged due to the turmoil during wars. Thus, several villages moved to other places because of the wind and sand. In early establishment of the Wind Lion Gods were aimed at exempting from the wind and sand. Later, in combination with the custom of the Minnan, the patron saint of the town also defense typhoon , protect against ants, and transportation accidents.

那麼到底哪裡可以找到風獅爺?(Where can we find Wind Lion God?)

通常都藏身在聚落中的村口、傳統建築的屋頂上、廟宇的某個角落或是甚至被人們遺忘的某個廢棄民宅內,並且因為不同年代的材質、造型、塑造工藝技巧,附著不同的故事,增添一些神祕的人文色彩。

They are usually hidden in the village entrance of the settlement, on the roof of the traditional building, in a corner of the temple or even in an abandoned house that has been forgotten by people. Due to the different materials, shapes, craftsmanship techniques, these wind lion gods have different stories.

「尋找風獅爺不是找石頭而已,而是挖掘金門的人文風貌。」(Searching for wind lion gods isn’t finding the stone but explore Kinmen’s Humanities.)

限於時間,沒有辦法一一找出所有的風獅爺,所以會就我自己主觀認為覺得特別的風獅爺做介紹,直接看影片:Click

不過還是建議大家親自去挖掘,屆時可以交流哈哈。

Limited to the time I stayed in Kinmen, I can’t find out all the wind lion gods. Thus, I will introduce the wind lion who I think is special subjectively, and you can watch the video I took directly: Click.
However, it is still recommended that you personally find wind lion gods, and then we can exchange the stories and experience haha.


五、夜遊後浦-七月流火(Houpu in the night-Ghost month)

後浦是金城的古名,金城同時也是金門的市中心,是一個古色古香的小鎮,同時聚集很多的古蹟。

後浦每天晚上七點半都有3到5小時左右的導覽可以聽,透過夜遊認識這個小鎮,但是在分享夜遊經歷之前,先分享一個小小的因緣際會,在前面提到我是因為看到一個MV(【Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover)所以對於金門開始展開想像。在後浦,我找到幾乎所有這首MV的元素,包含七月流火的燈、浯島城隍廟、閩式建築、鬼月等等,有一種想像成真的滿足感。

Houpu is the ancient name of Jincheng Township. Jincheng is also the city center of Kinmen. It is a quaint town with many monuments.
Houpu has a tour time of 3 to 4 hours every day at 7:30 in the evening. You can know this town through the night tour. Before sharing the night tour experience,I want to recall a MV mentioned before([Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer] Oriental EDM Cover) which I started to imagine the Kinmen. In Houpu, I found almost all the elements of this MV, including chiyuehliuhuo light, the Yeouido City Temple, Minnan-style building, the ghost month, etc. which makes me satisfied.

Taiwan Tempo Run Vol. 5 // Closer 】Oriental EDM Cover

夜遊行程參考(Night tour agenda):
總兵署(Troops Headquarters)(起點 Start )→北鎮廟(Bei Zhen Temple)→將軍第(General’s Residence)→陳氏宗祠(Chen Ancestral Shrine)→內武廟(Ne Wu Temple)→浯江書院(朱子祠)(Zhuzi Shrine)→外武廟(Houpu Wu Temple)→浯島城隍廟(Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple)→陳詩吟洋樓(Chen shiyin’s Western Style House)→奎閣(Kuixing Tower/Kuige)→邱良功母節孝坊(Qiu Lianggong Mother Chastity Arch)→靈濟古寺(
Lingji Ancient Temple) →模範街(Mofan Street)(終點 End)

後浦夜晚(Houpu in the night)

對於後浦用三個字形容:復古、閩南建築、書香味兒。(Three words describe Houpu: Old-style, Minnan-style architecture and bookish)

剛好有一個採訪活動是遊後浦之後的感想,當對方問會怎麼描述後浦,我用了以上三個詞,我就印象深刻的建築物分享心得:

This is my thought after visiting Hou Pu and I will share the experience of the buildings that I was impressed with:

1.總兵署(Troops Headquarters)

總兵署(Troops Headquarters)

「清金門鎮總兵署」原是明萬曆辛丑年(西元1601年)進士許獬讀書的地方,名為「叢青軒」,清康熙十九年 (西元 1680 年) 設金門鎮總兵署,首任總兵陳龍,考量金門城經歷明末多次兵禍, 原有的千戶所城已不能使用,而后浦人丁旺盛等因素,在康熙廿一年將總兵署從金門城遷到此處,之後經過多次改建,規模也屢有擴大,後來兩側有部分拆除始成現在規模。

這裏因為是以前的衙門,所以建築群很有「官氣」,裡面也有很多示意的假人與當地在明清時候的歷史資料,比較特別的是靠近大門有一棵上百年的樹,第一次來得時候這裏還在演台戲,特有鄉下家裏的感覺。

Troops Headquarters was originally the place where the scholars of the Ming Dynasty (1601) were named “Cong Qingxuan”. In the 19th year of Qing Dynasty(AD 1680), the Kinmen General Armament Department was set up. Chen Long, the first general in Kinmen, considered that Kinmen experienced many military disasters at the end of the Ming Dynasty. The original thousand-household city could no longer be used, and more and more people live here, the General Armed Forces moved from thousand-household City to troops headquarters nowadays. After several renovations, the scale has been expanded frequently, and later some of the two sides were demolished and now scale.
Because it is the former trick, the building complex is very “official”. There are also many fake figures and historical materials of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The special one is that there is a tree for hundreds of years near the gate and I felt the feeling of my hometown.

2. 浯島城隍廟(Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple)

MV裡面的浯島城隍廟(Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple in MV)

金門以前稱為「浯島」,《浯島城隍廟》 對於金門人最重要的地方父母神 — 城隍爺,每年的農曆四月十二日會舉辦「迎城隍」,城隍爺將會遶境讓所有的妖魔鬼怪都不敢現身, 金門人認為這是每年為盛大的宗教盛事,祈求未來一年的風調雨順。 浯島城隍廟為傳統閩建築格局,從山門看過去,就像是古代的官署。 黑白無常與六房司羅列在兩旁,分別是分財帛司、福德司、衡文司、採訪司、速報司、功德司,在大殿的正中央是邑主城隍爺,隔壁就是城隍爺的司法部門-解冤司。( 資料來源:金門觀光局)

同時,浯島城隍廟更是先於總兵署建立的建築,因為都是要等安定好,問過這邊的神明動土沒問題,才能建造其他建築。

Kinmen was called “Wu Dao”, “Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple” is one of the most important gods for the Kinmen people. The annual Lunar New Year will be held on April 12, Wu Dao Cheng Huang will make all the demon ghosts do not dare to show up. The Kinmen people think that this is a grand religious event every year, praying for the good weather in the coming year. (Source: Kinmen Tourism Website)
At the same time, Wu Dao Cheng Huang Temple was built before Troops Headquarters, because it is necessary to wait for stability and ask the gods here to move without problems, in order to build other buildings.

3. 邱良功母節孝坊(Qiu Lianggong Mother Chastity Arch)

要獲得官方的貞節牌坊非常不容易,首先你要守寡之下,培育兒女,而且兒女要有成就才能獲頒此牌坊。特別點出的是下面有八隻獅子,只有其中一隻是彩色的,聽說是這下面唯一的母獅子,管理一群公獅子。

It is not easy to get a Chastity Arch. First of all, you must be widowed, nurture your children, and your children must be successful in order to be awarded this arch. In particular, there are eight lions below, only one of which is colored. I heard that this is the only female lion below, managing a group of male lions.

邱良功母節孝坊跟他的獅子(Qiu Lianggong Mother Chastity Arch and its lions)

4. 浯江書院(朱子祠)(Zhuzi Shrine)

一進來門口,有很特殊的是用假的石頭書堆成的矮石柱,以此勉勵金門人認真唸書,前面提到我覺得後浦很有書香味,是因為金門這地方出了很多進士,比同時期的台灣多出了1.5倍,再來到處是書院來看,知道文風鼎盛。並且朱子,當時有名的文豪,還親自來過金門。

When I came in at the door, there was a special kind of short stone pillars made of fake stone books, which encouraged the Kinmen people to study hard. As mentioned earlier, I think that Houpu is very “bookish” because Kinmen has a lot of scholars in this place which is 1.5 times more than Taiwan in the same period and there are many Academy of Classical Learning. Zhu Zi, a famous writer at the time, also personally came to Kinmen.

浯江書院(朱子祠)(Zhuzi Shrine)

5. 模範街(Mofan Street)

模範街(Mofan Street)

這條街不長,但是兩邊插滿國旗,有台灣也有中國的,這是一位富商所建造的,街屋的格局排列非常整齊,連續的單拱拱圈更成優美的線條,極富建築藝術之美,期望可以作為其他街道的模範,故稱為模範街。

This street is not long, but it is full of Taiwan and China national flags on both sides. This is built by a wealthy merchant. The layout of the street houses is very neatly arranged. The continuous single arch arches have beautiful lines with the beauty of art, expected can be a model for other streets, so it is called Mofan Street.

另外,我看到金門跟台灣在鬼月很不一樣的地方在於-金門習俗,家家戶戶會掛起「七月流火燈」, 「七月」,是最慈悲的祭祀月,祭祀無人供奉的好兄弟,「普提心燈渡眾生,浯島流火照千古」,夜裡閃爍的亮燈是為了停留在世間的好兄弟引路。在夜晚的後浦掛起,特別的溫馨與浪漫。

In addition, I saw that the difference between Kinmen and Taiwan in the Ghost Month — in the Kinmen custom, every household will hang “chiyuehliuhuo light”, July in the lunar calendar is the most compassionate sacrifice month, worship the good brothers who are not worshipped. The flashing light hanging in the night are guided the good brothers who stay in the world which are especially warm and romantic.

七月流火燈(chiyuehliuhuo light)

六、尾聲(Last but not Least)

「最好的旅行不是透過旅程反思過去,而是記住學習如何享受跟體驗當下。」(The best travel is not to reflect your past but learn how to enjoy and experience present.)

本來定義這一次的旅程是跟自己對話,但是想想為什麼要這麼累呢?我所欠缺的是在乎當下的自己,每一次都活在過去,回想起來還真的是浪費時間。

在金門的這段日子應該是我最沒有負擔的時光,沒有課業、沒有工作、沒有做不完的to-do-list,每天不停認識新的人、認識客棧的朋友,與不同的背包客交流,唯一煩惱的是每天去哪裡玩。

當我回過神的時候,發覺已經好久沒有回想過去與擔心不確定的未來,那樣純粹的自己,單純快樂的自己,終於回來了。謝謝緣分讓我與北山古洋樓相遇,這裏有最熱心與善良的人們,讓我知道如何享受當下,有時候別太計較輸贏對錯,笑笑就過去。

The journey that original purpose is to reflect my past, but I think it is tired. What I lack is to care about the present, and every time I live in the past which is really a waste of time to think back.
In the days of Kinmen, it should be the time I have the most unburdened time. I don’t have any class, no job, no to-do-list. I meet new people every day and have the conversation with different backpackers. The only annoyance is where to go every day.
When I saw back, I had not thought about the past and worried about the uncertain future for a long time. I feel the pure happy finally. Thank you for letting me meet with Beisha where the most enthusiastic and kind people here and let me know how to enjoy the present. Sometimes, don’t care too much about winning or losing, and laugh.

“I held my breath every time

I tried to keep myself dry

But did I ask too much?

If I could do it again

Would you believe what I said That I still want that rush……” — Clean Bandit 《Stronger》

在金門受傷的那段時間,特別心神不寧,尤其在太武山海印寺求籤與朋友幫忙求籤都顯示著未來不是太看好,心情有點小沮喪。但是當客棧的朋友晚上帶著我去關公廟拜拜,說希望可以讓我平安的時候,忽然意識到,我忘記看好的一面,有這麼多人關心我,還有滿滿的善意,甚至我給出的善意也是,這些才是最真實的,那些擔心不是忽視,而是更專注該專注的。

During the time I injured, I was particularly uneasy. Especially in the Haiyin Temple in Taiwu Mountain, I asked for the future work which showed not so good which made me little depressed. But when the inn’s friend took me to Guan Gong Temple to worship at night, saying that they hoped me to feel safe, I suddenly realized that I forgot to look good. There are still so many people caring about me with full of goodwill. Those fears are not ignored, but more focused on what I have now.

「害怕的同時,別忘了人心的溫暖也是真的。」(Don’t forget the warm from people around you when feeling scared.)

謝謝北山的你&妳,更謝謝蔡大哥當初讓我來到這裏,認識世界上最愛冒險跟瘋狂的一群人,讓我到異國一年的工作之前,可以再次感受這塊土地的溫度。

有緣,再見。

Thank you, Beishan. Here, I met the world’s most adventurous and crazy people which let me feel the warmth of this land again before I go to work in a foreign country for one year.
Goodbye.

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